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#2 (permalink) | |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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#9 (permalink) |
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http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm
good site... anything you ever wanted to know just look here first |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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save ur money ...
get regular cams ... time and time again i see dynos where regular cams outperform FI cams ... i rarely see otherwise.
__________________
Shift when it blinks! http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2640940 FA5 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2216565 FG2 |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Turbo cams typically have less overlap. Basically, a turbo cam is set up to maximize cylinder filling (by raising the intake valve lift/duration which allows more compressed intake air into the cylinder). This is done my ensuring the exhaust valve is closed/or almost closed on the intake stroke of the piston. If the cam allowed for significant overlap (i.e. exhaust valve open during the intake stroke), the pressurized air would simply go right out the exhaust valve, as it is under positive pressure, and not vacuum (like it is in a non-forced induction motor).
On non-forced induction engines, overlap is commonly employed to take advantage of "cylinder scavening". Basically, when the intake stroke begins, the exhaust valve is held open which allows some of the intake charge to be "vacuumed" out of the exhaust port by the exiting, combusted gases. This actually helps optimize cylider filling (at the expense of increased pollution which is why car manufacturers don't do this and why aftermarket cams typically increase power and make your car fail emissions). Of course, ignition and exhaust cam timing/advance/retard factor heavily into the equation, too. Custom tuning MUST be done in order to maximize the gains of a specific cam. Cams have nothing to do with compression. That's determined by the piston crowns and combustion chamber volume. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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That's what I meant to say... ...I'm so full of shit! |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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One thing to consider is how radical a cam you want to go with. The higher lift/duration cams (aka "race" cams) currently available for the K series (K20A3) engine will require upgraded valvetrain components, namely springs and retainers. These radical cams will usually give you the "lumpy" idle and may require increasing idle speed so your car doesn't die when coming to a stop. There are frequently issues with vacuum at idle, too, due to the increased overlap. The lower lift/duration cams (aka "street" cams) can SOMETIMES keep stock valvetrain (although it would probably be easier just to replace the springs/retainers at the same time). |
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