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#5 (permalink) |
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1) Drain the old fluid from the clutch reservoir and fill with new fluid.
2) Connect a clear hose to the end of the bleed screw for the clutch (it's located under the intake manifold to the left of the clutch fork and has a black plastic cap on the end). Run the other end of the hose to catch the fluid when bleeding the line. 3) Loosen the bleed screw. 4) Have someone push on the clutch, release, push on the clutch, and so on. (watch the fluid level in the reservoir and refill as needed). 5) When you start to see the new clutch fluid come through the hose (and make sure that there are no air bubbles in the line) then hold the clutch down again and tighten the bleed screw. 6) Remove the hose from the bleed screw, reinstall the plastic cap, and then put the cap back on the clutch fluid reservoir. As you can tell, it is a two person job but is really easy to do. |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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What you should do it do it like brakes. Have someone press the pedal a few times and then hold it down to the floor (or close to the floor is fine); while they are holding the pressure on the pedal you then loosen the bleed screw. While still holding the pedal pressure you then close/tighten the bleed screw and then repeat this process until you see no bubbles or you see clean fluid (whichever you are trying to accomplish). Just thought I would clear this up... |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Tuna Fiddle™
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#10 (permalink) | |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Difference...beats me...It will be a few weeks before the car will be roadworthy once again. At that point, I really could not say if there would be a difference with the line as so many other things were replaced or upgraded since the last time the car was on the road. |
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