Stock Intake System vs Short Ram Intake

[Tronixx]

^ Yeah I guess that was kind of a dumb question, wouldn't make any sense to be spending $300 and have to send your stock intake away. I guess what X is using is stock intake tube from a Honda CR-V.

I'm happy to hear that a web store will be offering this and that there should be quicker turnarounds for it in the near future. Hopefully that website doesn't jack the price.

I am definately interested though, though I still wish there was a heat shield or another connection for the stock air flow tube like the Typhoon. I live in Florida, and from here on out it will just get hotter and hotter as the year goes.

[saiaba]

Originally Posted by ibanez37

It's just like purchasing any other intake. You pay, he sends the unit to you. You don't send him your old one. As of the beginning of Feb, CorSport will be taking orders and shipping them, as X will be caught up by then and the turnaround time should be quick.

True, I'm just nto a fan of paying 300+ for an intake anymore (have done it on like 5 cars now), so I was hoping to find a better cheaper way kind of like that "homemade icebox"

I guess I will just cruise the f/s forums to find a used x intake heh.

[zemoffm]

Originally Posted by Tronixx

But, no heat shield and connection to use the stock tubing to bring in cool air from towards the front bottom part of the car - if X's intake had this I would feel a lot better about it.

Thats how I feel too. Does X's completely remove all of the stock intake tubing? or is there a way to keep the tubing from where the stock intake comes in to let cold air into the filter?

I've read somewhere on this forum that apparently the Si doesn't have the hot air problem due to the way its designed but that doesn't do it for me. I don't believe that somehow all the hot air is expelled from the engine bay so that the air that goes into X's filter is no hotter than the air that comes in through the stock intake. The fact of the matter is that the engine runs hot, therefore there will be hot air at some point no matter how fast it is expelled from the area.

I've really wanted the X's intake but this one fact is holding me back.

Also, when you install another brand SRI, such as K&N for example, does it make you take out all the stock intake tubing? If the section of tubing where the cold air enters to where the stock air filter box is held remains intact, couldn't it conceivably work to help cold air enter the engine? I bought a SRI for my old car (a Geo Prizm, second best car ever I might add after the Si), and thats exactly what I did. Granted, the Geo probably didn't have a stock cold air type system, but regardless air kept coming through the stock tubing to where the new SRI was located right over the old air filter box.

Just a thought... If anyone has any kind of solid info on X's intake and heatsoak, that would help also...

[ibanez37]

From what I've heard X say, the way the hood and grille area is designed, there is a decent amount of airflow that reaches that part of the engine bay.

When you install the X intake (and most SRI for that matter), I believe you can leave the tubing intact. The only thing that is taken off starting at the TB is the intake tube, then the upper air box, the stock filter, and the lower airbox. I think only the CAI guys have to rip out the tubing going to the fender well.

EDIT: I believe he was using a ScanGauge (or someone did a test) pretty much stating that temps do get somewhat higher at a stop light, but about 5 seconds of driving gets them back to a pretty good level.

[saiaba]

Originally Posted by ibanez37

From what I've heard X say, the way the hood and grille area is designed, there is a decent amount of airflow that reaches that part of the engine bay.

When you install the X intake (and most SRI for that matter), I believe you can leave the tubing intact. The only thing that is taken off starting at the TB is the intake tube, then the upper air box, the stock filter, and the lower airbox. I think only the CAI guys have to rip out the tubing going to the fender well.

EDIT: I believe he was using a ScanGauge (or someone did a test) pretty much stating that temps do get somewhat higher at a stop light, but about 5 seconds of driving gets them back to a pretty good level.

I think the heat soak fiends are saying that 5 or 6 seconds at the light, cause slight hesitation while taking off.

I mean ask any racer, any real racer.. whether you win by an inch or a mile.. winning is winning...


those few seconds could cost you a race!

--Edit: I was joking btw.. 5-6 sec could cause some hesitation, but I don't think its enough to be overly concerned about.

[ErichPryde]

Originally Posted by Tronixx

That's exactly the question I want to know. I've been all over the X intake threads and this question does not get answered. X has replied and said that using the stock rubber tubing makes for cooler air temperature than a metal pipe, which I would definately agree with.

But, no heat shield and connection to use the stock tubing to bring in cool air from towards the front bottom part of the car - if X's intake had this I would feel a lot better about it.

The heat shield on the K&N intake is not designed to lower intake temperatures, it is designed to protect the filter element from radiated heat.

I actually spoke to K&N about it.

think of it this way: you are standing with your face very close to a fire. your face is hot, so you put your hand in front of your face. your face will cool quickly and your hand will heat quickly. however, if you breathe in a large amount of air, it will not be cooled by your hand. in the confines of your engine bay, the heat shield does not do very much to prevent hot air going into your filter.

Originally Posted by Tronixx

To follow up on the above post, has K&N did anything with their new Typhoon version 2 in regards to the MAF and A/F readings? From the looks of it, doesn't look like it. I was excited about this filter design until I realized this harsh reality.
.

I actually asked K&N why they discontinued the first SRI, and they told me they were having issues with the polished surface flaking and were going to have to go with a different finish.

this information doesn't completely add up, because if you visit the K&N page, they are now claiming a smaller hp gain- 7.1hp at 6700RPM instead of the previous 10.2hp claim.

[angels2k]

dont spend no 200 bucks for an aem sri. i found many for 80 dollars including mines (used of course). if u are going to spend 200 bucks buy a cai.

[Grizam303]

Originally Posted by angels2k

dont spend no 200 bucks for an aem sri. i found many for 80 dollars including mines (used of course). if u are going to spend 200 bucks buy a cai.

Since this thread is back from the dead...

No AEM SRI is worth $80.

[angels2k]

Originally Posted by Grizam303

Since this thread is back from the dead...

No AEM SRI is worth $80.

didnt notice last post.lol

[Excalibur]

Originally Posted by ErichPryde

The heat shield on the K&N intake is not designed to lower intake temperatures, it is designed to protect the filter element from radiated heat.

I actually spoke to K&N about it.

think of it this way: you are standing with your face very close to a fire. your face is hot, so you put your hand in front of your face. your face will cool quickly and your hand will heat quickly. however, if you breathe in a large amount of air, it will not be cooled by your hand. in the confines of your engine bay, the heat shield does not do very much to prevent hot air going into your filter.



I actually asked K&N why they discontinued the first SRI, and they told me they were having issues with the polished surface flaking and were going to have to go with a different finish.

this information doesn't completely add up, because if you visit the K&N page, they are now claiming a smaller hp gain- 7.1hp at 6700RPM instead of the previous 10.2hp claim.

I agree. I also believe that once you get moving, other intakes w/o heat shields do better b/c the shield blocks the flow of air to the filter.

[FG-JOE]

different people have different experiances with there own car.

most people would want to be secure when driving in the rain, therefore most people would go with the SRI

on the other hand some people go for power, therefore go with CAI's.

also for us socal peeps, 95+ degree summers kill SRI's because of heat soak.

then CAI run fine during hot ass summers here in cali.

its basically what the driver feels comfortbale with.

i choose aem because it is the only intake that is CARB legal and wont have to be dealing to take it off in 2 years when i have to somg my car.

[RWatters]

They lowered the power output because the 10hp gains were complete and total BS. When I took my gen 1 K&N off of my last Si the car actually felt faster with it off because I had all of my low end/medium range power back.

[R18iVtec]

Originally Posted by spocheld

I have an AEM SRI and love it. I noticed a difference a small difference in power, and most importantly it sounds a million times better. SRI's sound a lot better than CAI's, you don't have to worry about sucking up any water and hydrolocking, and they never throw CEL's. That's why I chose a SRI over a CAI.

[Excalibur]

They can still throw cels btw.

[R18iVtec]

Originally Posted by Excalibur

They can still throw cels btw.

what are cels?

[Excalibur]

Originally Posted by R18iVtec

what are cels?

Check Engine Light

[a1rfreshener]

lol.... listen hear guys.... just take out the intake resonator and change the filter..... and the i heat wraped my intake and i got rally good gains..... try it out..... i got a deep sound and gains..... for relativly cheap

[borabora1989]

wheres the intake resonator?

[Adlh29]

Originally Posted by borabora1989

wheres the intake resonator?

If you check out this link you can see it on the picture that says STD. The resonator if the reddish box with a hose going to the filter box and the "snorkel" hose going up the the edge of the engine bay. You will notice that the MUGEN version does not have a resonator.

Where does the stock intake pull air from? (Si)

[borabora1989]

can we just cut the resonator off? or somehow just remove it?