Streets of willow 1:30 Flat

[eugenekim.net]

Originally Posted by Moose

Tire Temps ($80 Probe type Pyrometer .. Longacre etc) will tell you what needs to happen from a Camber perspective ... (Do NOT use IR / Laser style ..they are NOT accurate enough to measure core belt temps)

This purchase will be the best "speed" mod you can do ... it will help optimise the tire setup and extend the tire life.


This is the ONLY way to setup your car to match YOUR driving style and YOUR specific suspension setup ... generic camber / caster / toe settings are just that generic ... you need to optimise to YOU ..and to do so you have to see what YOUR tire are doing ....and your tires will tell you by the heat that builds up in the various parts of the tires.




Measure across the tread as SOON as you come off the track in three spots on each tire ... inside, middle, outside, Then look at the following ... (there are subtle variations ...but this will get you into the ball park)


-If the inside of the tire is hotter, you have too much camber (tire is running to much on the inside of the tire thus getting hotter)

-If the outside of the tire is hotter you do not have enough camber (tire is running to much on the outside of the tire thus getting hotter)

-If the center of the tire is hotter, you have TO much tire pressure (tire is "bowing out in the middle from too much pressure)

-If both outter edges are hotter, you do not have enough tire pressure. (Tire is bowing in from too little tire pressure)

Ultimately you want a fairly even tire temperature with a bit more heat towards the outer edge on the "outside" tires (Left tires CW track direction, Right tires CCW track direction)

This will maximise you contact patch and keep the tire from getting to hot in one area and damaging it hunking)

You also do not want to exceed the maximum tire temp or you will see the tires start to "go off" ... optimum is arround 200F

Snip from Toyo


Moose

amazing and informative... great post

[I-NTEC]

i still dont unerstand how u got -3 in the front i got 2.25 - 2.50 with my camber plates as far in as possible and the camber bolts all the way in...

[xevo8]

Just went at streets again yesterday with ACRA

Also had my new alignment and turns out that I have -2.5 neg on front. and -3 on the rear.

Took tire temps on the front was good 140-160 all even across
But the rear was bad outside was 80 middle was 90 and inside was 119 all that with -3 neg on the rear.

I will be ordering the SPC kit that takes -1.25 degree maximum out

I guess, I will settle for -1.75 on the rear.

[StinkyTofu]

Not a bad time :). I will be doing some testing with my FA5 at streets once i get some tires that can hold up to heat better than the stock michelins.

Your tire temp in the front sounds very typical for a front wheel drive car. Can't really comment on anything else unless we have some data + video but keep up the good work.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by xevo8

Just went at streets again yesterday with ACRA

Also had my new alignment and turns out that I have -2.5 neg on front. and -3 on the rear.

Took tire temps on the front was good 140-160 all even across
But the rear was bad outside was 80 middle was 90 and inside was 119 all that with -3 neg on the rear.

I will be ordering the SPC kit that takes -1.25 degree maximum out

I guess, I will settle for -1.75 on the rear.

Great!!! ... once you get the tire temps optimised by getting your camber right, you know that you have got your contact patchs close to optimised. To help initial turn in, you can play a bit with front Toe out to get the response you are looking for.


How low are you on the C/O's ... anything below 1" of drop and the roll centers start to get funky ... beyond 1.5" they pretty much go below-ground. You have to go nuts and compensate with high spring rates to keep the roll moments minimised.

I would reccommend that you get the car corner balanced ... this will allow you to better analyse what is happening (from a handeling perspective) as the car will respond evenly and repeatbly under all conditions (RH / LH corner Braking / Accelerating) This will help you make educated decisions on what next in the setup needs to be addressed in each stage of the corner (Entry / Mid / Exit)


You can then start to look at Spring rates, spring rate stagger (F/R), swaybar sizes and stagger, and Damping to tune the transitional and steady state charateristics thru all stages of a corner.



Moose

[xevo8]

Thanks for the info,

Yea, my car has way over 1.5 drop I've been thinking of raising up a bit. because of the roll center.