Autocrossers: Check in here!

[Gonzo]

If that's the case it may have to go. I can't do STU, that's for sure.

[Gonzo]

Does anyone know where Hondata would fall within class modifications. The early crossover would definitely help a little on an autox course.

[piknockout]

Congrats on your first D.C. season! We've got a great crew in STX...but you'll need to remove that TBS first. That technically puts you straight into SM, as was previously stated, in STX you can't do anything after the throttle body. I won't protest you...unless you start winning. But it would probably be best to be legal.

The Hondata should be legal as I'm assuming it's just a tuning program. As long as it does not act as a standalone control, there should be no issues.

Personally I feel as if the Si could be strongly competitive, at least on the regional level. On a National level I think it could trophy, but would definitley more than likely fall well short of first place. Same boat that I'm in, FWD FTL. But it's still fun to try. And even more fun coming off course and people looking at you funny saying, "That was a Sentra?"

Look forward to seeing you out there on the 6th...only two more weeks!

[TeamBadger]

TBS place you in DSP....

[piknockout]

Good call, didn't think about the SP* classes. Either way with your current mods your outgunned in both SP* and SM. But just take that TBS off and you'll have tons of fun in STX. Looks like we currently have 10 pre-registered for the season in STX (including the two of us) and can imagine having a couple more signing up as the event gets closer. Should be a good time, just look for me in paddock in the next couple of weeks, you can't miss me.

[Gonzo]

Yeah, technically registration for the season was closed a while ago. The chairman opened it up , I dunno if it is still currently open or if it just says it is open.

[piknockout]

They reopened season registration as there were still spots remaining.

[Gonzo]

True, but it was the school we were at that seemed to convince them to reopen it.

[piknockout]

Just face it, you're not special.

[Gonzo]

Haha, hey man, you weren't there. You don't know what went down! We totally convinced them to open it back up though.
Infact, I have an email straight from the man himself and I quote...

"[Gonzo], I re opened the season subscriptions for you. Here is a direct link to register."
How's that for special?

Sounds like you are going to make the first practice event? We need the rest of these NoVA, DC, MD slobs to join in on the fun.

Oh I also got one of the 6 extra spots they opened for the Test and Tune. I'm totally pumped about it. 40 runs in a day! I could definitely use the experience.

[piknockout]

Sounds like I'll be seeing for 3 weeks in a row then (4/6 Practice, 4/13 T&T, and 4/20 Points #1). I'm actually going to split my T&T day with Pat Griffith. I figure I really should only need about 20 runs to get everything setup and knock some of the rust off. I'll be testing out the new Koni/GC setup and the Stones, figuring out tire pressures for the new tires (ran 615's last year) and adjusting the Konis and the RSB to where they need to be to get the car balanced.

I can't wait...I've been thinking about this since the last event last year.

[Gonzo]

Sounds good. Damn I forgot that was 3 weeks in a row. I guess I'll try to make them all, heh. Pretty intense start to the season.


What tires did you end up getting? I am leaning toward either RT-615's or Dunlop Sport Z1's (RE-01R's are a bit cost prohibitive since I need to pick up a set of el cheapo wheels to go with them) Plus right now I am still learning and having fun so I don't need super competitive tires.

[piknockout]

If you don't want to spend a ton of money, best bang for the buck would be the 615's. I think you can find 235/40/17's around $111 a piece, or so I've heard. I'm running 245/40/17 RE-01R's, but still need to get them mounted. Will be doing that this Tuesday along with an alignment since I just completed the suspension install. I just hope with the new wheel/tire setup I can still run -2.5 camber. If not, I may just have to get spacers, but we'll see on Tuesday.

[Gonzo]

I kind of wanted to get 245/40 since that is the max for STX but the 615's don't come in that. I guess even so it doesn't make too big a difference. Would the 615 still probably be a better choice than the Z1?

235/40-17 RT615's on 17x8's sounds good?

Now I just need to find some wheels. Maybe I'll just get the cheapest thing on TireRack that isn't too heavy...

I also need to go ahead and order my camber bolts and arms...

[piknockout]

Forget to mention the Z1, but I've heard they're going to be a bit pricey, hence why I didn't mention them. As in pricier than the Stones.

I ran 235/40/17 615's on 17x7.5 for the last two years. The 235 will fit better on the 8" wheel, so you'll be good there. As a relative beginner, there's not a huge benefit in going all out on parts in the beginning as there's a ton to learn in the mean time. And if you're trying to stay in a budget, the 235 615's will definitely help you out there.

As far as camber goes, I saw you mention the arms. IIRC, you can't have adjustable control arms AND use camber adjustable suspension top mounts. Not sure if you have them, but just want to make you aware before doing any STX illegal mods. Double check the rulebook though.

[piknockout]

Ah, here it is. This is assuming that the Si front is a Macstrut, which I "think" it is.

Originally Posted by SCCA 2008 Rulebook Section 14.8

I. Camber kits, also known as camber compensators, may be
installed. These kits consist of either adjustable length arms or
arm mounts that provide a lateral adjustment to the effective
length of a control arm. Alignment outside the factory specifications
is allowed. The following restrictions apply:
1. On double/unequal arm (e.g. wishbone, multi-link) suspensions,
only the upper arms OR lower arms may be modified
or replaced, but not both. Non-integral longitudinal arms that
primarily control fore/aft wheel movement (e.g. trailing
arm(s) or link(s) of a multi-link suspension) may not be replaced,
changed, or modified.
2. On arm-and-strut (MacPherson/Chapman) suspensions, the
lower arms may be modified/replaced OR other methods of
camber adjustment as allowed by paragraphs 14.8.B, C, or G
may be used, but not both.
3. On swing or trailing arm suspensions, the main arms may not
be modified or replaced, but lateral locating links/arms may
be modified or replaced.
4. The replacement arms or mounts must attach to the original
standard mounting points. All bushings must meet the requirements
of 14.8.B. Intermediate mounting points (e.g.
shock/spring mounts) may not be moved or relocated on the
arm, except as incidental to the camber adjustment. The
knuckle/bearing housing/spindle assembly cannot be modified
or replaced.
Note: Many modern suspension designs known by other names,
actually function as double A-arm designs. These include the
rear suspensions on 88+ Honda Civic/Integra, Neon, E36
BMW, and most “multi-link” and are covered by 14.8.I.1.

And for reference, sections B, C, and G.

Originally Posted by SCCA 2008 Rulebook Section 14.8

B. Suspension bushings may be replaced with bushings of any
materials (except metal) as long as they fit in the original location.
Offset bushings may be used. In a replacement bushing the
amount of metal relative to the amount of non-metallic material
may not be increased. This does not authorize a change in type
of bushing (for example ball and socket replacing a cylindrical
bushing), or use of a bushing with an angled hole whose direction
differs from that of the original bushing. If the Stock bushing
accommodated multi-axis motion via compliance of the component
material(s), the replacement bushing may not be changed
to accommodate such motion via a change in bushing type, for
example to a spherical bearing or similar component involving
internal moving parts. Pins or keys may be used to prevent the
rotation of alternate bushings, but may serve no other purpose
than that of retaining the bushing in the desired position.

C. The following allowances apply to strut-type suspensions. Adjustable
camber plates may be installed at the top of the strut and
the original upper mounting holes may be slotted. The drilling
75
of holes in order to perform the installation is permitted. The
center clearance hole may not be modified. Any type of bearing
or bushing may be used in the adjustable camber plate attachment
to the strut. The installation may incorporate an alternate
upper spring perch/seat and/or mounting block (bearing mount).
Any ride height change resulting from installation of camber
plates is allowed. Caster changes resulting from the use of
camber plates are permitted.

G. Camber bolts may be installed providing these parts use the
original, unmodified mounting points and meet the restrictions
specified in 14.5.B. Caster changes resulting from the use of
camber bolts are permitted.

[Gonzo]

I might have to look into those rules pretty thoroughly but...

I do know that the front would use camber bolts that just replace the stock ones. The rear suspension is where the arms go.

[piknockout]

Touche...I thought it might have to do with my lack of Si suspension knowledge. Luckily (or unluckily) for me I can't do anything to the rear as far as alignment goes. Solid rear beam FTL.

[Gonzo]

Vulcan only has 2 615' in stock.

[piknockout]

Check out edgeracing.com, I had success with them a couple years back.

Looks like they have them on sale for $111 each. Not shabby at all.

Edge Racing - Tire Details