I've been noticing the AutoX thread lately and just noticed there was no official Track / HPDE threads, mostly threads from MikeJ that get a lot of attention. So I think this should be the official Track / HPDE talk and chat thread.
I'll attempt to post up any links I find here that relate to this thread so they're easily found.
Name: Alex
Cars: 2009 Civic Si (Just a progress sway bar on it), 1998 BMW M3 Sedan (Track Rat)
Info: This will be my second track season and will be my first with the Civic, last year I had the pleasure to drive at New Hampshire International Speedway, and Watkins Glen, in a number of different e36's.
With major camber wear on one side, say you run staggered, and cannot rotate, you go thought tires very quickly. It wouldn't kill I guess I used the wrong term but you go through tires defiantly faster.
You'll go through front tires faster but if you think about it it'd be like for every 2 pairs of front you buy a set of rear rather than front and rear at the same time. Or so I see it that way.
If you're worried about tire wear with that much camber, use stock wheels for dd without much camber then buy a set of dedicated wheels and adjust camber while you switch wheels. You can align the camber on both sides with a level, or even a leveling app on the iPhone. As long as you don't touch the tie rods you should be fine for toe, from what I believe. I'm not sure about faster, but I don't even think faster is adjustable on these cars anyways.
You won't see camber wear with dedicated track wheels obviously because you want the tire to be flat/on its maximum contact patch during a corner anyways, although perfectly level isn't attainable during all corners and changes within a corner, but you know what I mean.
Just got an alignment this weekend and saw that after i installed the 2 camber bolts (and before the alignment), the front right had -2.3 degrees of camber. I didn't aim for the exact max for the front when installing the bolts, just close to it. I didn't think we could get more than -2 degrees of camber with four front camber bolts on the HFP suspension.
I also got rid of .55 degrees of toe in the front! I'll post numbers today or tomorrow. I just fell in love with the HFP suspension all over again.
Also upgraded to a 70A rear motor mount and shifting seems much smoother.
Kevin (Cambodian...) - So, I found a thread where you said you had the really bad front clunking noise in suspension - did you ever fix it?
I ask because...kast weekend, I threw on my Swift Spec-R springs on HFP struts (Both new) and progress RSB - Immediatlet after, I have the damn thunking in right front and little in the left side. I re-did it all again last night - I preloaded suspension, torqued every bolt etc - its still annoying me and getting worse.
On a side note, I just got my car aligned and corner balanced at Evasive.. the car feels so much better and smoother. The turn in feels so good and it feels so stable during mid corner
Depends on how you drive.. if you drive pretty hard, go with a more aggressive alignment. But the more aggressive the alignment, the quicker your tires wear out of course. Just gotta find a good balance between performance and longevity
Got it, thanks. I've seen your arrangment (oil temp thermostat in the new sandwich i think) - I was skeptical I could make the -10AN lines fit in there, but I'll take another look since relocation does not look ideal either.
Looks like -8AN is the way to go, you're right - the -10AN is gonna be too freakin' big to make the turns and fit in tight passageways.
Do your lines to/from the cooler go over the passenger side (near the AC line, then down past the ww fluid) or around the back of the motor/exh header first (then past the manual tranny and air intake) to the front of the car? I'm thinking passenger side...
I'm going with the Earl's cooler and Mocal thermostat setup.
I went to another track event at Harris Hill Road today. It was a complete blast.
If you skip ahead to 1 minute into the video, I nail the track out cone :lildevil: I was running into a lot of traffic in the earlier sessions so I lined up 1st on the grid on my third session. I ended up catching up to the cars and I tried to avoid the traffic but I kept coming up to them.
Here's some video from the third session:
I was having some issues shifting from 3rd to 4th so I was shifting well before 8k rpm. Does anyone else have this problem?
If you skip ahead to 1 minute into the video, I nail the track out cone :lildevil: I was running into a lot of traffic in the earlier sessions so I lined up 1st on the grid on my third session. I ended up catching up to the cars and I tried to avoid the traffic but I kept coming up to them.
The only issue I have once in the while is shifting from 1st to 2nd past redline, I found out that the Em1 clutch master cylinder will solve the problem.
I usually shift BEFORE or at 8k on track, so no worries you can't squeeze more revs out of the motor
For the people with air to oil coolers, did you install an oil temp gauge and see high temps with thecstock set up, or are you just installing these as a safety measure?
If you did have a gauge did you notice the higher oil temps only above a certain ambient temp?
And like VF1Si said, I'm "whoring bewst" so my motor is generating a lot of extra heat as well, and I've had bad luck over the years with cooling systems failing in different cars when driven hard.
Name: Mike
Car: Civic Si 2007
2011 setup:
K&N SRI & Flashpro basemap
Eibach sportlines on OEM struts
17x7.5 Work XD9 on 225/45/17 Azenis RT-615
17x7 Work CR Kai on 225/45/17 Direzza Z1 Star Spec
Wilwood Dynalie BBK with DTC-60 pads front and HP+ rear
New parts for 2012:
Koni struts + Neuspeed Race
225/45/17 Hankook RS-3
Skunk2 Alpha Header
Hasport RMM
FullRace 3" catback
Etune
Looking forward to get back on the track in may once all parts will be installed should make a great improvement, mostly suspension wise.
Also curious to know if some people took off the ABS system, I seem to have some brake overheat issues even with the wilwoods, might be due to ABS constantly jumping in and keep on working until late turn in.
I actually daily drive my track tires and prefer being able rotating tire front/rear I guess instead of going through tires in pairs
How do you fit 255 in there lol, my 225 are rubbing the inner fenders on sportlines. I'll add negative camber up front this year but something like -2.5 degrees I guess, but I doubt I can go higher than 235.
Had to bleed brakes twice at my first and only full track day so far with the wilwoods. Switched from HP+ on stock calipers to DTC-60 on wilwood 4-piston, made quite a big difference in braking distance, pushing it later and later, but after 12 min, no more pedal, oil boiled
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