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Old 02-19-2012, 08:23 PM   #41 (permalink)
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OP: Nice idea for this thread!

I'm relearning how my car behaves with the Koni/Neuspeed sport combo, and BC lower balls. And if I'm really lucky, a used set of Motegi Traklites will pass my inspection this week that I found at a stupid low price (better not be cracked!) and I'll be wrapping my Star Specs around them instead of the stockies.

EVO driving school for sure this spring to test the limits, and always happy to embarrass myself knocking over cones!
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:40 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugar Shane View Post
For sure. Luckily, I didn't reach the limits of the stock brakes on my FG2, but my first weekend of HPDE absolutely murdered the stock all-season front tires.

My car: 2011 FG2
Wheels/Tires: Kosei K1 TS (14lbs each!). Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec
Suspension: HFP kit (not yet installed)
Brakes: Still OEM. I'm leaning towards Hawk HP+ pads, possibly SS lines as well
what size ddss - are you running 17x7 +45?
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:44 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ayodog View Post
Anyone here hate car meets but love the paddock at track days where you can relate to people and discuss actual performance modifications? I DO !

Just got on my reverse stagger setup, 17x7.5 55ot and 17x8.5 38ot. So far on freeway on ramps, it feels WONDERFUL. Car is a little tail happy if i don't stay hard on the throttle, but if i do there are no issues.
Spot on, I love chilling on the paddock.

Does anybody know if 16" rims will clear our stock brakes? I'm thinking about a set of stock regular civic wheels for track wheels? If those don't worry I'll just but another set of stockers.




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Old 02-20-2012, 01:52 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksheep View Post
what size ddss - are you running 17x7 +45?
OEM size tires, 215/45/17. I'm not sure about the wheel offset, since I bought them used. They were originally purchased from Tire Rack, and their website sells a 17x7 with either 42 or 50mm offset. I'm guessing mine are the 42mm version. You will need hubcentric rings if you run these wheels.
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:57 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BlackFA522 View Post
Sorry i wasnt clear. I meant to ask if that was all of the parts I needed for the tsx swap. Brake fluid will be going in at the same time lol that would be dumb if i didnt.
Gotcha. I was wondering if you knew something I didn't!

Although, now that I think about it... If you do your brake swap more than 6 months before taking your car to the track, just use OEM fluid. Some organizations (BMWCCA comes to mind) require you to have your brake fluid changed within 6 months of your track day. No sense wasting the good stuff.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:03 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Jason Lee
Name: Jason
Cars: 2007 Civic Si Sedan (DD & track)
Car spec:

Engine:
Injen CAI / KRRH / Invidia Q300 / Flashpro + tune / Magnaflow HFC

Suspension:
GO Pwr Coilovers (8k/10k)
Ingalls F&R camber kit
Progress RSB

Brakes:
TL-S Brembo
TL-S rotor (centric blank)
Stoptech Street (DD) , Carbotech XP-12 (Track)
Hawk HP+ (rears)
Goodridge SS lines
Motul RBF600
Custom Brake Ducting

Wheels:
17x9+35 (255 Hankook RS3) Fronts
17x8+35 (225 Hankook RS3) Rear

Future mods:
Oil cooler (in process)
Kaaz 1.5 LSD
Type R Final Drive Gear Set
Clutch & Flywheel Set

Where you would find me:
Buttonwillow, Willow Springs, Socal tracks

Last edited by cambodianricer; 02-20-2012 at 02:07 AM.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:09 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackFA522 View Post
Good to hear
I see what your saying. I dont really want to put on only a rear for hpde/road course stuff as i feel like the car is fairly neutral already and id rather put on a progress rear and an eibach front bar. Then the rear end stiffness will still have increased more than the front, but not as much. Then id swap the stock bar in for autox.

What dampers are you planning on running with coilovers? And I know that the extended ball joints bring the roll center closer to the center of gravity, but does that have any benefits if you're not lowered over 1.5 inches?

Nice setup
Looking at the Tein Monoflex w/EDFC.

Some can make the argument for and against the extended ball joints. I only mentioned them purely as an interest item down the road. Far too early to tell if I will even notice a slop in turning once I move forward with the Tein setup. I'm only trying to change what I can tell is holding me back, not building a track car that i have to learn to drive.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:10 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayodog View Post
Anyone here hate car meets but love the paddock at track days where you can relate to people and discuss actual performance modifications? I DO !

Just got on my reverse stagger setup, 17x7.5 55ot and 17x8.5 38ot. So far on freeway on ramps, it feels WONDERFUL. Car is a little tail happy if i don't stay hard on the throttle, but if i do there are no issues.
Rory, so this is your new setup?

Didn't know we can fit a +55 in the rear!
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:11 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Extended ball joins and spherical bushings will help suspension geometry.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:28 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cambodianricer View Post
Extended ball joins and spherical bushings will help suspension geometry.
extended ball joints. worth it? - Page 3 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:11 AM   #51 (permalink)
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we have different suspension
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:18 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrickerm View Post
OP: Nice idea for this thread!

I'm relearning how my car behaves with the Koni/Neuspeed sport combo, and BC lower balls. And if I'm really lucky, a used set of Motegi Traklites will pass my inspection this week that I found at a stupid low price (better not be cracked!) and I'll be wrapping my Star Specs around them instead of the stockies.

EVO driving school for sure this spring to test the limits, and always happy to embarrass myself knocking over cones!
I have the Tracklite V2s in 17x8+45. ~14.5 lbs. Forged. Good stuff!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Guerra View Post
Spot on, I love chilling on the paddock.

Does anybody know if 16" rims will clear our stock brakes? I'm thinking about a set of stock regular civic wheels for track wheels? If those don't worry I'll just but another set of stockers.

Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
They will clear.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cambodianricer View Post
Name: Jason
Cars: 2007 Civic Si Sedan (DD & track)
Car spec:

Engine:
Injen CAI / KRRH / Invidia Q300 / Flashpro + tune / Magnaflow HFC

Suspension:
GO Pwr Coilovers (8k/10k)
Ingalls F&R camber kit
Progress RSB

Brakes:
TL-S Brembo
TL-S rotor (centric blank)
Stoptech Street (DD) , Carbotech XP-12 (Track)
Hawk HP+ (rears)
Goodridge SS lines
Motul RBF600
Custom Brake Ducting

Wheels:
17x9+35 (255 Hankook RS3) Fronts
17x8+35 (225 Hankook RS3) Rear

Future mods:
Oil cooler (in process)
Kaaz 1.5 LSD
Type R Final Drive Gear Set
Clutch & Flywheel Set

Where you would find me:
Buttonwillow, Willow Springs, Socal tracks
Should've gone to SoW last Sunday. If your prediction of shaving a second off your time bore fruit, you would've taken 1st in street. Top time was a high 1:29. I won't mention who took 1st in mod1.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yetti 000 View Post
Looking at the Tein Monoflex w/EDFC.

Some can make the argument for and against the extended ball joints. I only mentioned them purely as an interest item down the road. Far too early to tell if I will even notice a slop in turning once I move forward with the Tein setup. I'm only trying to change what I can tell is holding me back, not building a track car that i have to learn to drive.
I've enjoyed tracking on my Monoflex. I know it's only single adjustable but it seems to get the job done. Previous tracking on HFP was fine as well except for long, sustained G sweepers where it seemed like I could reach out the window and touch the ground thanks to the roll... Cost to performance ratio easily goes to HFP though.

Seems like the roll center adjusters are good for cars lowered 1.5 inches or lower. At the same time the general consensus is that anything lower than 1.5 inches is detrimental to handling on the 8th gen platform. So it's on that thin line where it's usefulness is still in question.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:24 AM   #53 (permalink)
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FML, I knew I should have went! It would have been pretty close!

I'll probably be at all of their BW, WSIR, and maybe chuckwalla events
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:26 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cambodianricer View Post
Name: Jason
Cars: 2007 Civic Si Sedan (DD & track)
Car spec:

Engine:
Injen CAI / KRRH / Invidia Q300 / Flashpro + tune / Magnaflow HFC

Suspension:
GO Pwr Coilovers (8k/10k)
Ingalls F&R camber kit
Progress RSB

Brakes:
TL-S Brembo
TL-S rotor (centric blank)
Stoptech Street (DD) , Carbotech XP-12 (Track)
Hawk HP+ (rears)
Goodridge SS lines
Motul RBF600
Custom Brake Ducting

Wheels:
17x9+35 (255 Hankook RS3) Fronts
17x8+35 (225 Hankook RS3) Rear

Future mods:
Oil cooler (in process)
Kaaz 1.5 LSD
Type R Final Drive Gear Set
Clutch & Flywheel Set

Where you would find me:
Buttonwillow, Willow Springs, Socal tracks

I'm in the process of designing a brake ducting system for my FG2, would you mind explaining how you did yours?
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:19 PM   #55 (permalink)
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I went through the fog light housings, over my CAI(for driver side), tied it to the strut, and curled it onto the spindle(?) facing the caliper. Same for passenger side except substitute the CAI for a removed windshield washer fluid reservoir. I didn't want to remove the reservoir but combined with my dual heat exchanger oil cooler and Aftercooler lines there just wasn't any room.
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:31 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cambodianricer View Post

Wheels:
17x9+35 (255 Hankook RS3) Fronts
17x8+35 (225 Hankook RS3) Rear
Jason - Do you drive on the street as well with this reverse stagger? Do you happen to have a picture of your car with these on? Is it obvious that it is staggered or are you running different offsets.

Thanks much!
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:56 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugar Shane View Post
Gotcha. I was wondering if you knew something I didn't!

Although, now that I think about it... If you do your brake swap more than 6 months before taking your car to the track, just use OEM fluid. Some organizations (BMWCCA comes to mind) require you to have your brake fluid changed within 6 months of your track day. No sense wasting the good stuff.
ATE Superblue is only 15$ a bottle and it would save me the trip to the dealer as tire rack (where im buying all the parts) has it in stock. And, i can switch between the superblue and type 200 (same thing but different colors) to make bleeding easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yetti 000 View Post
Looking at the Tein Monoflex w/EDFC.

Some can make the argument for and against the extended ball joints. I only mentioned them purely as an interest item down the road. Far too early to tell if I will even notice a slop in turning once I move forward with the Tein setup. I'm only trying to change what I can tell is holding me back, not building a track car that i have to learn to drive.
Expensive lol, what about koni/redshift or ground control? That's what I plan on doing if I dont do HFP. I'm just not sure if they are worth 200$, but then again if I'm/you're already spending a lot on good suspension, it might be worth trying out. I saw that link you posted: A double wishbone suspension probably doesnt relate here, as our camber curves are much different than theirs. How much are you planning on lowering with the teins?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vf1si View Post
I went through the fog light housings, over my CAI(for driver side), tied it to the strut, and curled it onto the spindle(?) facing the caliper. Same for passenger side except substitute the CAI for a removed windshield washer fluid reservoir. I didn't want to remove the reservoir but combined with my dual heat exchanger oil cooler and Aftercooler lines there just wasn't any room.
That's exactly how i was planning on doing it, minus the CAI. Can you just pull out the fogs but leave the plastic hole thing there? I was thinking of pulling out the whole grill for a bigger opening. The only problem would be working with material that would mold to that shape then back to a tube. It would be better though, because as the air goes from a larger opening to a smaller tube/duct, the velocity of the air increases.

******Has anyone here taken off the dustshields? I mean they only restrict heat from leaving the brake assembly.

Last edited by BlackFA522; 02-20-2012 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:58 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Instead of running brake duct hoses through the car by removing ww reservoir (which I gave up on, although you can find smaller reservoirs...), etc., how about either:

1. NACA ducts from hood, run the hose through the inner fender behind the strut towers. This could actually work, and you can buy a track day only hood (junk yard) for like $80. There's a fair amount of room to route the duct down behind the strut towers (2" diameter hoses) but you have to hole-cut the inner fender. Only about two bends in the airlow.

2. Or, install a track day only front lip (4") with duct hose inlet in the lip, and run the hose under the car. Don't think this would stand up to DD, but only 1 bend in the airflow, and highest pressure air intake zone instead of NACA ducts on the hood.

I'm working on Option #2 right now, starting with the Club RSX garden liner front lip design! I'll post something if I can get it to work - still playing with intake nozzles for the mounting to the lip.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:30 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Blackfa522,

Before I had ducting I removed the dust sheds in hopes of better cooling. This helps, but depending on how hard the track is on brakes and how hot they get, the ball joints in the arms can get overheated since they're only an inch or so away from the inside of the rotor. I'd find a way to keep the dust shield or otherwise insulate the ball joints. Gold foil?
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:03 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrickerm View Post
Instead of running brake duct hoses through the car by removing ww reservoir (which I gave up on, although you can find smaller reservoirs...), etc., how about either:

1. NACA ducts from hood, run the hose through the inner fender behind the strut towers. This could actually work, and you can buy a track day only hood (junk yard) for like $80. There's a fair amount of room to route the duct down behind the strut towers (2" diameter hoses) but you have to hole-cut the inner fender. Only about two bends in the airlow.

2. Or, install a track day only front lip (4") with duct hose inlet in the lip, and run the hose under the car. Don't think this would stand up to DD, but only 1 bend in the airflow, and highest pressure air intake zone instead of NACA ducts on the hood.

I'm working on Option #2 right now, starting with the Club RSX garden liner front lip design! I'll post something if I can get it to work - still playing with intake nozzles for the mounting to the lip.
Why not just remove the reservoir? Idk about other people but I've used the spray stuff once, and I've had the car for a year.

Or, you could just not have the duct in any kind of housing, as long as its sturdily mounted to the bottom of the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vf1si View Post
Blackfa522,

Before I had ducting I removed the dust sheds in hopes of better cooling. This helps, but depending on how hard the track is on brakes and how hot they get, the ball joints in the arms can get overheated since they're only an inch or so away from the inside of the rotor. I'd find a way to keep the dust shield or otherwise insulate the ball joints. Gold foil?
Maybe I'll stay away from that then. Or, ill cut off like 3/4 of the shield and leave some in front of the suspension components. I was worried about the dust possibly reducing the longevity and performance of nearby suspension components, but never thought of heat doing that, thanks!
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