I've been noticing the AutoX thread lately and just noticed there was no official Track / HPDE threads, mostly threads from MikeJ that get a lot of attention. So I think this should be the official Track / HPDE talk and chat thread.
I'll attempt to post up any links I find here that relate to this thread so they're easily found.
Name: Alex
Cars: 2009 Civic Si (Just a progress sway bar on it), 1998 BMW M3 Sedan (Track Rat)
Info: This will be my second track season and will be my first with the Civic, last year I had the pleasure to drive at New Hampshire International Speedway, and Watkins Glen, in a number of different e36's.
I have 4 camber bolts up front, brand doesn't really matter. I'm at -3.5 degrees
Camber wear? as long as you have 0 toe, it should be fine. And if you take corners faster than more people, the tire should wear correctly. But I would run about -2 with stock suspension.
I think the DTC-60 / Blues might be too strong. I was recommended to use the HT-10, but then again, I am on the Acura TL-S Brembos (I have another set for sale on 8th)
I tried the Project Mu Club Racers with the stock calipers and I really, really liked them.
Buy a bottle of ATE super blue brake fluid on tire rack. Or Motul RBF600 if you have the money
Okay, I'll order 4 bolts for the hell of it, can I do a camber adjustment in my garage? I've got this thing going where I put my iPhone on the ground and click the zero button then put it up against the middle of the wheel, did it after getting my M3 aligned and the measurements are spot on to the print out sheet.
I'd imagine if I put the front wheels on something can slide slightly I could just loosen the bolts and adjust it to -2.0 then just tighten them. No? And then just do string toe in the garage....?
Yeah I was going to do a lesser pad but from what I've been reading I'm going to cook them no matter what, so may as well try and make them last a little longer.
If you're running different pads, make sure that you run different rotors OR make sure you use the racing pad to clean the rotors before and after the track.
I know there's a video floating around about it with some guy and his corvette, but I can't seem to find it now.
If you're running different pads, make sure that you run different rotors OR make sure you use the racing pad to clean the rotors before and after the track.
I know there's a video floating around about it with some guy and his corvette, but I can't seem to find it now.
PB Blaster? (Don't combine that with the torch btw).
Going to try to order all my stuff tonight but on pain-killers so might have to wait till tomorrow.
Last second question should i try Hawk Blues or Hawk Blacks? 40$ price difference....
Also, with the camber up front will the rear end come around a lot quicker? If so what do I do in a FWD car? I know in RWD the answer is POWER and just keep on it till you can get the wheels straight.
More camber up front will allow the car to oversteer much easier, if I start over steering too much I just point the wheels in the direction I want to go and let off the throttle slightly (not all the way, just slightly)
Oh, Not sure I always considered oversteer a less aggressive term where the car just rotates faster (aka a BMW M3 or other well set up car usually over-steer)
and losing it when the back end tries to get in front! :wheee:
I guess its regular conditions vs limit condition.
My gfs dad who works on cars often suggested I try heating up around the bolt lightly and then using wax which will harden and push the bolt out. Apparently it has woked with great success..I will post the results
Ouch! Is your engine stock? Now I don't feel so bad about how long I got out of my DS 2500's.
After 2 weekends (where I did nurse them a bit) and a few months of DD they still have enough life left for DD, and my discs are serviceable. I've just switched to CL5+ front and rear. Will be interesting to see how they do. So far on the street, they have better grab from cold, and no noise. I have not cut through the old pad deposit yet though, so we'll see what happens to the noise then.
I also have slotted rotors. I'm now thinking blanks would be better. I've lost material along each edge of the pad, I think from it catching on the slot at high temps. Also, once I reached a certain temp, I got uneven deposits nicely spaced between the slots. My guess is due to uneven surface temps caused by the slots in combination with overheated pad material.
Those pads are toasted. I recently installed hfp suspension and I'm running 225/45/17 and I'm getting some rubbing on tight turns with dips. Should I be worried about this on the track? I took a tihgt turn going decently fast to make sure everything was in order and I heard a high pitched metal rubbing sound from the front
That's normal, I went through half a pad in one track day when I was still on stock calipers.
I got sick of buying new pads every other track day so I went with the TL-S Brembo. Brake pads cost like $25 more but they last about 6 track days and no bending. Plus wayyy more stopping power and even pad wear. No more tapering pads.
I'm on +45 offset 17x8 with 225/45R17 and I also had some minor front rubbing on heavily loaded turns. Remove the retainer clips along the top of the fender well (3 or 4 of them) and move the liner above the metal lip and tabs that those clips fit into. It gives you a couple mm of extra clearance - no rubbing since.
Got my wheels back from balance, guy said ever wheel was out of spec by at least 2.5 ounces and he put weights on the inside and outside of wheel? Either way discount tire can go die, guess I'll be on star specs next!
Didn't think finding a helmet for this would be so difficult. Idk how strict they are but the first helmet I borrowed from my friend was 1 year too old. The second didn't even have a tag inside showing when made. Might have to buy a brand new one
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