I've been noticing the AutoX thread lately and just noticed there was no official Track / HPDE threads, mostly threads from MikeJ that get a lot of attention. So I think this should be the official Track / HPDE talk and chat thread.
I'll attempt to post up any links I find here that relate to this thread so they're easily found.
Name: Alex
Cars: 2009 Civic Si (Just a progress sway bar on it), 1998 BMW M3 Sedan (Track Rat)
Info: This will be my second track season and will be my first with the Civic, last year I had the pleasure to drive at New Hampshire International Speedway, and Watkins Glen, in a number of different e36's.
Unfortunately, I'm on a college budget haha, I absolutely LOVED the NT-05's more than the PS2's on my M3, trying to figure out if the NT555 (non-R) would be a good budget tire, I imagine I won't be as competitive in AutoX but I think the HFP suspension and some negative camber in the front would make up for that, no?
Idk if this is in your budget, but for some reason Toyo Proxes R1R are cheap on ebay, I looked into it and I think they're last year's or the year before, but here you go:
Ordered my oil cooler setup - went with Earl's cooler, nylon braided lines & AN-8 fittings, with Mocal thermostat adapter plate (no filter relocate). Gotta get it installed before Lime Rock on 21 June!
I only ran those continentals because I didnt have money to buy me a set of rear rs3. In cool weather I will probably be able to get the car down to 1:58 at bw if I use a more neutral setup like 275/35/18 rs3 front and 225/45/17 rise rear. If you can't get your car to turn, just stick some bad skinny tires in rear and you will be surprised at what the car can do.
Anybody here ever track on XXR? I know rims are going to crack eventually but will they hold up? Of course I'll check them all the time. They'll see like 3 track days maybe 10 autoX a year. I'd run 8s all around.
i havent seen many people track xxr so im not sure, but if your going to go by 8's all around id look into rpf1 theyre cheap (not xxr cheap but not volk expensive) and are proven to be strong. or a used set of 5zigen those work also. or evo8/9 enkei 17x8+38 those are cheaper than xxr
No idea but you're gonna end up spending extra money to replace them if they do crack.. I'd say do it right the first time or don't do it at all. I'm putting 235's on stock wheels and staying in GS until I find 17x8 or higher around here for cheap then I'll do HFP or koni along with then (rear sway bar put on before). <=Probably, I might end up selling the car when I go to college idk
just the stock thermostat. I have an aftermarket gauge to tell me the water temp since when out stock water temp gauge is in the middle, thats anywhere from 140F-220F on the aftermarket gauge. BUT the sensors are in two different locations
I wanted to but my girl is visiting from school, but I found my make up event last night... 3 days at Tremblant with BMW CCA, I hear it's the best track in NA. I'm going to try to make another lime rock event this year even though, that and NJMP only two I haven't been to in NE.
Also anybody here ever race on some of the non-custom budget coilovers made for for the civic? I've seen the Pro-C floating around for 600-800 used. With 4 season height adjustability is nice.
Limerock is my first hpde as well. Would I be ok running stock cooling at limerock? Temp will be around70ish most likely. Don't know much for cooling options. I just picked up new stoptech rotors and pads. Hfp susp and rear sway from progress dot 4 fluid and ss front lines.
The June 16th Lime Rock event with EMRA is a time trial, but can be treated as a HPDE by beginners (just don't spend the extra $45 for the transponder rental).
More info is on their site - Eastern Motor Racing Association. The EMRA chairman, Tom, is very responsive with emails - ask him if you have any questions. Mention Mike from Liquid Dinosaur Racing, just for what it's worth.
Will email him tonight, just realized my brother and I cant dual drive a car so I may take the Honda.
Need some helps guys I have my stock tires / rims I DD on and a set of 18" 5-zigens I used for autoX they have NT05s on them but I get wheel shake at 75-80mph, I have metal hub centric rings would it be those or bad balance? (I got them from discount tire...) should I try and rebalance these or... (I'm a afraid the balance won't fix it and I'll be screwed)
There is a set of OEM SI wheels with bad tires on CL, buy these and throw on the stock all seasons in 245/40/17... (I can get 2 for like 100 bucks) I don't have the budget to put slicks on it by then, but will later. I just don't think I want 18s to be my track rims...
You don't want to use OEM lugs on aftermarket wheels. OEM are ball-seat whereas aftermarket is cone-seat. The ones discounttire sent should be aftermarket cone-seat ones.
Okay so if it's not the lugs it's either the balance or hub centric spacer? The spacer seems to fit nicely... So what are the chances it's the balance? It's always had the slight vibration since day one... But I get it at 80 and it continues even if info faster.
I don't want to end up buying another set of tires and have the same issue..
Well, you have the hubcentric rings already, so that only leaves the actual balance of the wheel/tire. Look for any flat spots on the tire (which I doubt), so it has to be the balance of the rim.
Cambodian thanks will have them rebalanced this week, this life time balance is only for the lifetime of the tires? (My nittos have about one HPDE left so).
Okay sorry guys for being a pest but don't want to f up my first track day with the civic, going to get the tires rebalanced and if it works it works.
Otherwise, a friend has a set of 235/40/18 star specs for sale, could I run them safely? The 5-zigens are 7.5" wide so I don't see that being an issue but will they rub? My current 18s rub the fender line slightly on the outside of the fender, would crash bolts help fix this? And will I need an alignment after?
Also thinking about running Hawk blues or DTC60s in the front, I know I'll cook them no matter but what would be best?
1-2mm before wear bar is a great tread area. they should let you on the track without an issue.
If the shakiness has been there since day 1 and you aren't the original owner, could be flat spots from previous guy. Does your car pull at all? Could be alignment, too. How long have you had the car? Did it have low mileage when you bought it?
What suspension are you on? Are you rubbing only in the front? Just 1 camber bolt on either side should be enough but if you are doing 1, you might as well do 2.
Hawk blues will be more than enough for your first track day with the civic.
I'm the original owner of the car, test drove it with .5 miles on it, and rolled it off the lot with only what I put on it in the drive. Car doesn't pull at all alignment seems fine, but it has been 35k and over 3 years.
I also bought the wheels / tires new from discount tire, and I know you guys are going to say I was stupid and I was, but I put them on and drove them and noticed it but really didn't drive fast enough to make them shake on the steet, and yeah I didn't ever call and get help with them which I should have.
Basically I rubbed off the little plastic bolt looking things that hold the fender on, I was thinking about tucking the liner above the fender lip and I'm sure it would solve it, its barely rubbing.
Stock suspension, I'm planning on ordering from tire rack for brakes and fluid what would be better the Eibach or SPC camber bolts? Should I order 4 bolts total? They say I'll get -1.75 degrees out, since it's my DD should I be worried about camber wear? Or can I just go back after the event and leave on bolt in + one stock bolt to reduce the camber, I'd imagine toe will be fine even if I'm touching these bolts.
We will see about the pads, I cooked a set of stock M3 brakes my first time in my M and cooked the civic pads and fluid on every canyon run I do. :vtec:
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