|06-13-2011, 10:41 AM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Most logical/cheap rotors/brakes for STX Autocross?
So like a lot of guys involved in autox, I'm not on an unlimited budget but I'm now looking for a way to stop more consistently. I'm running stock everything insofar as brakes, in STX class.
Problem is, I have some grooving and glazing and it's definitely affecting how consistently I can brake, and how much. I plan to bleed the system (pedal feels mushy sometimes) and if I can't upgrade within a reasonable budget, I may live with it, but yesterday I took 1st place but only .3 seconds and I know my fear that my brakes will not stop me has kept me from attacking the course.
So, what would you guys recommend? I want something that's going to work immediately (it is autox, after all) and I won't have to worry about silly things like glazing and grooving (I don't track the car and don't plan to in the near future at all). At this point, to keep costs down, I'm thinking of just replacing those glazing/grooved rotors since it's cheap, easy and stock pads were great in autox! LMK what you guys think (I don't know much about how well slotted/drilled rotors work or how durable they are). TIA!
Here are the rules:
E: STX and STU: Non-standard brake rotors may be used provided
they are of equal or larger dimensions (diameter and thickness) and
made of ferrous material (e.g. iron). Thickness includes the individual
plates of a vented rotor, as well as the overall dimension. The diameter
for replacement rotors is measured at the minimum outside dimension.
Aluminum rotor hats are allowed. Cars originally equipped
with solid (non-vented) rotors may utilize vented rotors. Cross-drilled
and/or slotted brake rotors may be fitted provided all such voids are
within the disc area, and comprise no more than 10% of that area.
Brake calipers and mounting brackets may be replaced provided they
bolt to the standard locations and the number of pistons is equal to or
greater than standard. A functioning emergency brake of the same
type, operation, and actuation as OE must be present. Drum brakes
may be replaced with disc brakes of a diameter equal to or greater
than the inside diameter of the standard drum. Such conversions
must be bolted, not welded, to the axle/trailing arm/upright, and must
include an integral, redundant emergency brake. Changes to backing
plates/dust shields/brake lines to accommodate these changes
are permitted but may serve no other purpose.
|06-16-2011, 02:18 AM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Brake fluid is something that degrades over time and needs to be bled regularly. Brake fluid is actually hygroscopic and absorbs moisture. I usually bleed my brakes a couple times a year, including before autocrosses, and I also do a complete system flush yearly.
Also, upgrade your brake fluid to something with a higher boiling point. ATE Super Blue is a great value for the cost/performance.
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/autocross-sanctioned-drag-racing/259537-most-logical-cheap-rotors-brakes-stx-autocross.html
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