Need info from guys who goes to the track (road course)

[P1NGP1NG]

Hi guys...

for you guys who goes to the track (road course), what coilover do you use?
can you post the type and the spring rate?
also, how does it perform on turn specially the hairpin?
does the front coilover "jump" when you going out from the hairpin?

here's my explanation about "jump".
let say you go to a left hairpin, after you hit the apex, you start flooring the gas when you go out from the turn.
it means you put pressure on the front right suspension.
does the car jump (the damper is going up and down)?
does your engine rev smoothly when going out from the turn or its coughing?


Thanks a lot...

[eunos]

That would be more to do with traction. That results more from tires/LSD than coilovers. Then there is the driver, line, track conditions, technique...etc. Take your car the way it is, just make sure your brakes are up to the task (pads/fluid). It doesnt matter if a car jumps or not, you cannot touch the potential of your car in stock trim, no point upgrading. Better off improving the driver. Tires pay the most dividends, not coilovers. Have fun.

[jwlee7]

this question has to do with traction, like eunos said. The friction circle (or whatever its called now) comes into play. You only have X available traction.

steering will take away from that. acceleration and braking will too.
If you are threshold braking, you are using 100% of your available traction. That means if you try to accelerate or steer, you would get no response, because there is no more traction left. If you brake softer, you 'free up' traction for steering and acceleration.

If you start flooring the gas pedal, you can easily run out of available traction and slip.

That is the case with me and my supercharger. With the newly gained power, I cannot stomp the pedal sometimes on exit, as doing so will cause the wheels to spin. I'm guessing your 'coughing' is referring to this spinning. You deal with it by feathering the throttle/steering.

[trickyazn]

my car pushes a lot. if i get on the gas too quick then my car will start bogging until the wheel is straight.

[P1NGP1NG]

well im not saying that I have one right now..
I tracked my car and it run fine with the current set up.

my current set up:

JDM Mugen Sport Suspension
SPC Rear Camber Arms
SPC Front Camber Bolts
Mugen GP w/ Bridgestone Potenza RE11
Spoon Caliper
Project Mu Type HC+ (F&R)
ATE Super Blue
Stoptech Slotted Rotors
Stoptech Brakelines

I love this set up except I cant get more front camber than -0.9.
thats the only reason I'm considering coilover to get more camber.

as i have experience with many set of coilover (my fit race car), the wheel jump is not because of tires or lines because it only did with one type of coilovers, not others.
I want to make sure that the coilover that i will buy will not make the car jump when i push going out from a turn.

[trickyazn]

If your pushing going out from a turn then your getting on the gas too early.

[CanyonDriver]

Originally Posted by P1NGP1NG

I love this set up except I cant get more front camber than -0.9.
thats the only reason I'm considering coilover to get more camber.

get camber plates if more camber is your primary concern.

[trickyazn]

We have camber plates available?

[CanyonDriver]

Originally Posted by trickyazn

We have camber plates available?

K-Mac. Not the greatest, but until Cusco decides to make them those of us who need them will have to settle.

[trickyazn]

I heard K-macs are not worth using.

[CanyonDriver]

Originally Posted by trickyazn

I heard K-macs are not worth using.

i have no experience with them so i can't rightfully say, but i do know theres a few people around using them.

[hugeevilrobot]

You can also run OEM camber bolts- pretty sure guys in stock class autox are getting more than 1.5* negative with them.

I could be wrong, but the problem you are describing sounds a bit like a binding swaybar (too much preload on it). That could reduce traction on your inside tire, causing the issues you described. Someone better experienced with a setup like yours could probably have more useful comments.

[trickyazn]

I never heard of too much preload in the rear causing the hesitation under cornering

[hugeevilrobot]

Originally Posted by trickyazn

I never heard of too much preload in the rear causing the hesitation under cornering

I meant on the front- wouldn't binding cause the inside tire to unload?

[trickyazn]

I'm unsure, I have little preload in the front and it seems the front tends to bog under hard cornering

[byronl225]

Tire pressure is also very important too, when you're at the track where do you set your tire pressure to?

[trickyazn]

I leave it at 34 all around.

[KnIghTT13]

Originally Posted by P1NGP1NG

Hi guys...

for you guys who goes to the track (road course), what coilover do you use?
can you post the type and the spring rate?
also, how does it perform on turn specially the hairpin?
does the front coilover "jump" when you going out from the hairpin?

here's my explanation about "jump".
let say you go to a left hairpin, after you hit the apex, you start flooring the gas when you go out from the turn.
it means you put pressure on the front right suspension.
does the car jump (the damper is going up and down)?
does your engine rev smoothly when going out from the turn or its coughing?


Thanks a lot...

Originally Posted by trickyazn

my car pushes a lot. if i get on the gas too quick then my car will start bogging until the wheel is straight.

Originally Posted by trickyazn

If your pushing going out from a turn then your getting on the gas too early.

Its not necessarily your coilovers or your camber, When you floor the gas directly at the apex in a FWD car your not gunna go anywhere unless your almost at a stop due to traction problems (as said already). Mainly, it looks to me like you need to check out some of the How to: Driving a FWD car on some tips about cornering, possibly brake induced oversteer, left foot braking, on the track only of course Like trickyazn said, practice with your stock coils or whatever setup you have right now and see if you can improve solely on practice alone for a while, then if you start noticing a plateau (times within say .3 to .5 of each other) you know that its not you the driver, but yet something else needed to improve times. If you get really good, maybe some lift-off FTW? Enjoy yourself and have fun..

[P1NGP1NG]

I think you guys dont understand what I mean.. lol...
I know when to start opening the throttle.

let say we go out from a left hairpin, it means we give pressure to the front right suspension...
a good coilover will hold up the pressure (no bogging)...

I have tried 4 different coilover on my fit race car (Buddy Club, Hotbits, J's Racing and Aragosta).
I took the same turn but it only have wheel bog with the Hotbits not with others.
so it means its not the driver but the suspension.

I have jdm mugen sport suspension on my csx-s and it doesn have wheel bog.

the reason I started this thread is to get info about which coilover have wheel bog under the situation that I said above...
I love my jdm mugen ss but the camber cant go more than -0.9.
Im considering to buy a coilover (maybe BC RSD or Pro-C) but I need to know whether those will have wheel bog or not.

Thanks..

[OttoX]

I run Pro-C and have noticed no " wheel-bog " - going to upgrade the rear springs though to something perhaps 2k stiffer .