Jepetto's Complete "Avic D3 Install" - Page 5

striker_1818 · 07-11-2008, 03:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoadStar

Ok, comparing your info to what I have here, it looks like Scosche corrected whatever they had been screwing up, because the ACC (labeled "IGNITION SWITCHED 12V+) on the scosche adapter is in the correct location.

Right next to that on the Scosche harness is a green/white cable, which by referencing the wiring schematics provided in this other thread, matches up with the factory blue/silver wire, which is the car speed signal input. So - the AVIC pink lead connects to the Scosche green/white lead, which has the bonus of not having to splice into the factory wire at all! I'm liking the Scosche connector more all the time!

Continuing with the remaining mysterious leads on the Scosche harness, the orange/black is the empty slot on the Metra. It's apparently "illumination negative" according to the aforementioned thread, but apparently not used in this case.

Finally, below the ACC lead on the Scosche harness (where you drew the 6 small squares) are the Black/White, Pink, and Brown leads. The other thread refers to them as "LET" "TEL" and "SECU". I'm assuming these guys aren't used either, so I'll seal those guys off as well.

So - the only question I have remaining, the "Reverse Gear Signal Input" purple/white lead from the black AVIC harness. Where does that go?

that's for the rear camera

LoadStar · 07-11-2008, 03:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by striker_1818

that's for the rear camera

Or rather, it's for use WITH the rear camera, which is more or less what I assumed. I'll assume that if one wanted to use the rear camera, one would have to somehow run the purple/white lead to somewhere near the shift lever and tap in at that point.... but I'll guess most people are leaving that one disconnected for now, right?

striker_1818 · 07-11-2008, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoadStar

Or rather, it's for use WITH the rear camera, which is more or less what I assumed. I'll assume that if one wanted to use the rear camera, one would have to somehow run the purple/white lead to somewhere near the shift lever and tap in at that point.... but I'll guess most people are leaving that one disconnected for now, right?

No, it is FOR the rearview camera. The camera will not work without it being plugged to that wire(when you put it in reverse, the screen will not switch to video output rear camera).
But yes, you leave it unplugged

gr3yEX1 · 07-20-2008, 04:55 AM

I did the amp integration and re-checked every wire for the rcas and still my rear channels do not work. Upon testing I found out the factory sub in my car worked so with that in mind I concluded that it was part of the front and not rear outputs.

I wonder why I'm not getting any sound from the back. There seems to be sound if I rewire everything backwards but very low volume. Regardless the subs installed in my car make me smile and having the highs in the front with midrange at the door pillars is decent enough for me =).

Anybody get a problem with sound coming out of the rear?

Also I have a problem with FM reception its like really terrible. I didn't hook up that blue wire thats part of the antenna adapter. Does that have anything to do with amplifying the signal?

Everything else works perfect and running well!!!

striker_1818 · 07-20-2008, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gr3yEX1

I did the amp integration and re-checked every wire for the rcas and still my rear channels do not work. Upon testing I found out the factory sub in my car worked so with that in mind I concluded that it was part of the front and not rear outputs.

I wonder why I'm not getting any sound from the back. There seems to be sound if I rewire everything backwards but very low volume. Regardless the subs installed in my car make me smile and having the highs in the front with midrange at the door pillars is decent enough for me =).

Anybody get a problem with sound coming out of the rear?

Also I have a problem with FM reception its like really terrible. I didn't hook up that blue wire thats part of the antenna adapter. Does that have anything to do with amplifying the signal?

Everything else works perfect and running well!!!

Yes, you need to hook up the blue wire to the harness because that works as an amplifier(since our antenna is the glass-type).

gr3yEX1 · 07-20-2008, 10:42 PM

which wire on the metra aftermarket harness do I hook up to the blue wire from the antenna adapter?

striker_1818 · 07-20-2008, 11:06 PM

striker_1818 · 07-20-2008, 11:07 PM

Oh, I mean you buy the antenna adapter. It will have two leads. One will go to the back of the D3, the other will go to the navi harness.

***Huckleberry*** · 07-23-2008, 06:27 AM

so, the wiring harness for the navi are all the same between the trims, just wired differently?

***20strong*** · 07-23-2008, 07:10 AM

Awsome write up. Thanks for taking the time to do it. No all of the intergration harnesses and what not are not needed if I am installing a entire system right?

striker_1818 · 07-23-2008, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Huckleberry

so, the wiring harness for the navi are all the same between the trims, just wired differently?

you have to wire them different if you don't have an si sedan/coupe or ex coupe

vfx · 07-24-2008, 02:15 PM

I ordered a whole kit from that eBay seller including HA10B Wiring Harness and HAAB Antenna Adapter.

I'm worried about the Scosche HA10B Wiring Harness. Does this really work or blow up the fuse in this thread LINK? Even LoadStar said they corrected it? Should I risk it? Thanks. OP, what's your take on this?

gr3yEX1 · 07-24-2008, 07:18 PM

I would recommend you use a multimeter before attempting to connect that to your factory harness. As far as I have read the wires haven't been corrected yet especially the ones you can get from circuit city. I got my harness from Best Buy they carry the Metra harness =D.

Dain5 · 07-25-2008, 07:23 PM

nice, looking at updating my radio to this one

geminon2k7 · 07-26-2008, 10:58 PM

Hey I have the D3 sitting in my house as well as the install kit. However I also have a 4ch amp and 4 new speakers. How would I install the 4ch amp and the D3 in the Si? I.E. where would I tap into the speaker wire for the 4chan amp? I know to run the power wire and RCA's and mount the amp, I just want to know where to tap into the speakers to get them the 90W RMS power from the amp :-)

gr3yEX1 · 07-27-2008, 01:43 AM

Be careful with that type of power rating with the stock speakers in your civic. The stock speakers are made of very cheap material and are not capable of handling the kind of power aftermarket speakers can handle. If you choose to still connect your amp to the speakers then you can tap into the speakers by bypassing the factory amplifier in your civic. I'm not sure if you have a SI or EX civic because those 2 have the premium sound system. I don't have to go into too much detail because everything you need to know about that stuff is on this forum site.

So I really can't continue on without me knowing which type of car you have. If you do have the premium sound system then you could buy the amp bypass harness from crutchfield. Using the harness you can then have all the wire leads you need for all speakers like sub, tweeters, fronts, rears, etc. Use your own wires and solder those to the harness or crimp them whatever way you prefer. I'm not running my speakers the way you intend to, but that would be my way of running an amp to power the speakers except for the subwoofer.

Good luck to you!

geminon2k7 · 07-27-2008, 02:04 PM

I already have 4 new Infinity Kappa speakers in the doors, capable of handling 90+ Watts of power. I just want to know how to use the factory speaker wiring to get them connected to a new MTX 4channel amp in the trunk... I.e. Should I spice into the factory amp and run speaker wire from the the Honda Factory amp and disconnect the harness from the factory amp? Or should I loop the Front Speaker wires to the RearSpeaker wires and connect the Rear factory speaker wires to the amp and run speaker wire directly from the back speakers to the amp? I've done this before on my old 96 civic hatch, not sure if it would work on this car with the factory amp...

gr3yEX1 · 07-27-2008, 03:03 PM

It's a whole different story when you have a premium sound system like bose, jbl, honda premium system, etc. If you don't do this properly it will result in noise because it's like having 2 amplifiers on every speaker. That causes too much resistance if you know a little electrical terminology.

Your idea is a possibility, but I personally would obtain that factory amp bypass from crutchfield ($30) and wire the speakers that way. You won't have to splice into anything if you go that route.

There is a few things you "might" loose and that would be the tweeter and stock subwoofer (EX coupe only) if you try to wire bypassing the factory amp.

I wouldn't call myself an expert at car audio installations, but I can provide you with the best of my knowledge with this whole issue =).

I had to go inside my dash numerous times and it took me almost a week to finally get things right with my system in my car. Now that I have an idea of how to work with amps and running wires around the car I feel more confident in the future to do this to my future car whenever that will be.

Let me know when you attempt to do this install or whatever progress has been made.

vspecll · 07-29-2008, 04:14 AM

great stuff dude but anyone has the DIY for AVIC Z1?

michinsi · 07-29-2008, 05:55 AM

I have a question. Is it possible to still use the stock sub without an aftermarket amp?

07-23-2008, 06:27 AM	#89 (permalink)
*Huckleberry* Join Date: May 2008 Location: Los Angeles Age: 26 Posts: 11,403 Jesse	so, the wiring harness for the navi are all the same between the trims, just wired differently? __________________ August 6, 1969 – October 21, 2003

07-23-2008, 07:10 AM	#90 (permalink)
*20strong* Traveling Road Show Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Germany Posts: 3,401 20Strong	Awsome write up. Thanks for taking the time to do it. No all of the intergration harnesses and what not are not needed if I am installing a entire system right? __________________ http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...g/20st5pz3.jpg

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07-20-2008, 04:55 AM	#84 (permalink)
gr3yEX1 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: lake forest, ca Age: 28 Posts: 166 chris	I did the amp integration and re-checked every wire for the rcas and still my rear channels do not work. Upon testing I found out the factory sub in my car worked so with that in mind I concluded that it was part of the front and not rear outputs. I wonder why I'm not getting any sound from the back. There seems to be sound if I rewire everything backwards but very low volume. Regardless the subs installed in my car make me smile and having the highs in the front with midrange at the door pillars is decent enough for me =). Anybody get a problem with sound coming out of the rear? Also I have a problem with FM reception its like really terrible. I didn't hook up that blue wire thats part of the antenna adapter. Does that have anything to do with amplifying the signal? Everything else works perfect and running well!!!

07-20-2008, 10:42 PM	#86 (permalink)
gr3yEX1 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: lake forest, ca Age: 28 Posts: 166 chris	which wire on the metra aftermarket harness do I hook up to the blue wire from the antenna adapter?

07-20-2008, 11:06 PM	#87 (permalink)
striker_1818 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Farmingdale, New York Posts: 12,349 Christian

07-20-2008, 11:07 PM	#88 (permalink)
striker_1818 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Farmingdale, New York Posts: 12,349 Christian	Oh, I mean you buy the antenna adapter. It will have two leads. One will go to the back of the D3, the other will go to the navi harness.

07-24-2008, 02:15 PM	#92 (permalink)
vfx Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 9	I ordered a whole kit from that eBay seller including HA10B Wiring Harness and HAAB Antenna Adapter. I'm worried about the Scosche HA10B Wiring Harness. Does this really work or blow up the fuse in this thread LINK? Even LoadStar said they corrected it? Should I risk it? Thanks. OP, what's your take on this?

07-24-2008, 07:18 PM	#93 (permalink)
gr3yEX1 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: lake forest, ca Age: 28 Posts: 166 chris	I would recommend you use a multimeter before attempting to connect that to your factory harness. As far as I have read the wires haven't been corrected yet especially the ones you can get from circuit city. I got my harness from Best Buy they carry the Metra harness =D.

07-25-2008, 07:23 PM	#94 (permalink)
Dain5 Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 15	nice, looking at updating my radio to this one

07-26-2008, 10:58 PM	#95 (permalink)
geminon2k7 Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: New Jersey Posts: 96 Mike	Hey I have the D3 sitting in my house as well as the install kit. However I also have a 4ch amp and 4 new speakers. How would I install the 4ch amp and the D3 in the Si? I.E. where would I tap into the speaker wire for the 4chan amp? I know to run the power wire and RCA's and mount the amp, I just want to know where to tap into the speakers to get them the 90W RMS power from the amp :-)

07-27-2008, 01:43 AM	#96 (permalink)
gr3yEX1 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: lake forest, ca Age: 28 Posts: 166 chris	Be careful with that type of power rating with the stock speakers in your civic. The stock speakers are made of very cheap material and are not capable of handling the kind of power aftermarket speakers can handle. If you choose to still connect your amp to the speakers then you can tap into the speakers by bypassing the factory amplifier in your civic. I'm not sure if you have a SI or EX civic because those 2 have the premium sound system. I don't have to go into too much detail because everything you need to know about that stuff is on this forum site. So I really can't continue on without me knowing which type of car you have. If you do have the premium sound system then you could buy the amp bypass harness from crutchfield. Using the harness you can then have all the wire leads you need for all speakers like sub, tweeters, fronts, rears, etc. Use your own wires and solder those to the harness or crimp them whatever way you prefer. I'm not running my speakers the way you intend to, but that would be my way of running an amp to power the speakers except for the subwoofer. Good luck to you!

07-27-2008, 02:04 PM	#97 (permalink)
geminon2k7 Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: New Jersey Posts: 96 Mike	I already have 4 new Infinity Kappa speakers in the doors, capable of handling 90+ Watts of power. I just want to know how to use the factory speaker wiring to get them connected to a new MTX 4channel amp in the trunk... I.e. Should I spice into the factory amp and run speaker wire from the the Honda Factory amp and disconnect the harness from the factory amp? Or should I loop the Front Speaker wires to the RearSpeaker wires and connect the Rear factory speaker wires to the amp and run speaker wire directly from the back speakers to the amp? I've done this before on my old 96 civic hatch, not sure if it would work on this car with the factory amp...

07-27-2008, 03:03 PM	#98 (permalink)
gr3yEX1 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: lake forest, ca Age: 28 Posts: 166 chris	It's a whole different story when you have a premium sound system like bose, jbl, honda premium system, etc. If you don't do this properly it will result in noise because it's like having 2 amplifiers on every speaker. That causes too much resistance if you know a little electrical terminology. Your idea is a possibility, but I personally would obtain that factory amp bypass from crutchfield ($30) and wire the speakers that way. You won't have to splice into anything if you go that route. There is a few things you "might" loose and that would be the tweeter and stock subwoofer (EX coupe only) if you try to wire bypassing the factory amp. I wouldn't call myself an expert at car audio installations, but I can provide you with the best of my knowledge with this whole issue =). I had to go inside my dash numerous times and it took me almost a week to finally get things right with my system in my car. Now that I have an idea of how to work with amps and running wires around the car I feel more confident in the future to do this to my future car whenever that will be. Let me know when you attempt to do this install or whatever progress has been made.

07-29-2008, 04:14 AM	#99 (permalink)
vspecll Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Fresh Meadows NY Posts: 606	great stuff dude but anyone has the DIY for AVIC Z1?

07-29-2008, 05:55 AM	#100 (permalink)
michinsi Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Hatorade Age: 26 Posts: 4,012 McTomalds	I have a question. Is it possible to still use the stock sub without an aftermarket amp?

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