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#42 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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hey dj, ive seen u talking ALOT about stuff that doesnt make ne sense, like once second u had 2000 Watts (by the way ur talking PROBABLY MAX) and then 1000 watts
just for your information my standard system will MAX out a 4 gauge oversized wire (equals 2.97 awg) its only 2 amps, a PDX 100.4 @ 60 amps and a KAC-9104d @ 60amps.. thats 120 amps, and pretty much the max of any 4 gauge (over max for cheaper brands) wire on the market for your future reference, both amps are Class d and extremely efficient. And i dont think you should be giving advice and suggesting having another battery or CAPS caps are kinda useless for extended listening, great for about a whole 3 secs (if you have a 6 farad with my system for instance) but otherwise, a big empty space if nething an upgrade of the alternator to a high output alternator is all you need (which also requires replacing the stock ground wire for the alternator!) Id have to say that your car would have had to be running 2 gauge or smaller in order to run a 2000 RMS amp and a 400 RMS x4 amp... in fact it should have ran 1/0 or even 2/0!!!! if you are talking bout systems that are bought from walmart, no they prolly wont need 4 gauge... BUTTT and thats a big but they might for instance, my gfs system was walmart type stuff... a jensen 400 RMS amp and a pioneer 60x4 RMS amp... this put me just over the 60 amp max of 8 gauge wire, so in this case 4 gauge was just perfect.... but only to a distribution block where it broke down to 2 8 gauge wires ;-P |
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#43 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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again for reference:
a farad cap hold about enough charge to bolt out 150 RMS though a class D amplifier for about 2 secs. This means that anything past this is a DOUBLE drain on your alternator and battery as they try to keep up with the demand of charging ANOTHER storage source! |
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#44 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Burlington, NC
Age: 30
Posts: 579
Chris "DJ Disturbed"
iTrader: 0 / 0%
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Quote:
As for what I know about running power things in vehicles, I worked for a Communication shop for a long while, installing police lighting and 2way radios (with some of the larger ones pulling ALOT more power then any audio system you will put in a civic, think about a fire dept moble command truck). We didnt even keep 0gauge wire in the shop b/c it was never really needed, Exp when you can run 2 smaller power wires for much cheeper then running 0gauge. But then again, what Do I know, i just studies lighting and sound system design for theatres in college (wich those amps draw even more power than any veichle can handle, i know, diff type of thing, but i still have to design the power source for these things as well when i design a system). Plus I have been install car audio since 1995, and police lighting and 2 way radios since 2000. Plus, did i say I'm a FCC licends radio operator, witch means i had to take many test on electrical systems (FCC id KF4ZZE) Last edited by djdisturbed; 08-28-2008 at 12:38 PM. |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Burlington, NC
Age: 30
Posts: 579
Chris "DJ Disturbed"
iTrader: 0 / 0%
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Now I'm not saying NOT to use 0 gauge wire, use it if you want BUT, in MOST set-ups its a little overkill. unless you are running a very high power system with LONG wire runs you typically wont need it. Part of the reason that we didnt have to use 0gauge wire on my set up was the run from the 2nd battery to the amps was short and i was not getting much resistance from a long wire run. same thing with the wire going to the 2nd battery (wich was about the same length as going to the trunk in the civic b/c i had to cross over the engine bay to the other side to run it in the truck). There have been times when i DID need to use 0gauge (and bigger) on set ups, but they were pushing alot more power then i was in the truck (wich i dont see you average 8th gen owner trying todo, i many civic owners spending 0ver $6000 on just speakers,amps and custom boxes/installs when that $ is much better spent on our engines
) I have had to run 00gauge wires for one of my friends set-ups, but he was also doing a bass comp walled van. he was hitting 160.1 db of bass with that system, with a 57 hrz feq. on a 2 second burp, my system was 145.9 with a 54hrz burp, gotta love tuned systems to optimize you spl's).I think my set-up for the mugen is NOT going to be a bass set up, its going to be a IASCA type set up, going for overall sound quality not SPL's. I'm already well known in this area's club scene for my great sounding club audio systems i design, so next I'm going for that hifi Home theatre sround sound type thing in the mugen. I got a sub box design that if it works right will give me both the strong punch i like with a a good sounding rumble without havingto put in the big guns and taking up all my trunk space (using some of my club style sub designs, using both a front mounted sub and a short throw horn type sub enclosure using 2 diff size subs). but its goingto be REALLY fun getting that IASCA sound without all the rattles that the civics are bad for, i might want to buy stock in dynamat... lol Last edited by djdisturbed; 08-28-2008 at 01:16 PM. |
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#46 (permalink) | |||
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Senior Member
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dude, ill tell u what anyone can go to college a breeze through, and yes most people should never put a second battery in their car... in fact most that win comps have only 1 battery BUT they do have upgraded wires and alternators 160.1 decibels is pretty loud but i have personally seen a few more than that lol what a person NEEDS in their new civic IS an upgraded alternator, because its never gonna handle another 40-80 amps when it can only produce enough amps for the current needs of the car (which in our case is about 120 amps) also on TOP of that, if your car has a 90 amp alternator as does my gfs, and you add an 80 amp system, think about the wear and tear to an alternator which is always FULLY taxed??? our civic comes with a 120 amp alternator anyone putting a medium end system in can expect at least 80 amps of draw from their new system. (again depending on what items are being used) if your car is putting out 120 to start with, u can almost expect it to be using 3/4s of that ALREADY!!!! and the alternator puts out at around 14.4 on most vehicles (14.6 on mine) and your battery stores at 12 volts.... so do the math and ull see that dipping down into your battery means extra strain for your WHOLE system it just CANT handle. unless your putting in 1 150 RMS sub and keeping stock speakers and headunit, expect there to be strain to a system at full blast.... as for me i drive around with the system loud because thats how i like my music... ill be deaf by the time im 30 but thats my choice also i never ASKED for your credentials, i just asked you to not give advice when u cant get you "what ive done" story straight..... ![]() people WILL most likely need 4 gauge wire, some 1/0 :-) 2 gauge is perfect for most :-) |
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#47 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Oh and if you were SOOOOO good at audio... ud know to mention that your running RMS wattage, not PEAK :-)
but thats right.... u won a competition right? :-) thought so hope that FCC registration works out for you! sure isnt helping your stance with me |
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#50 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Burlington, NC
Age: 30
Posts: 579
Chris "DJ Disturbed"
iTrader: 0 / 0%
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Quote:
EXACTLY!!!!!!! (not saying this sarcasticly (sp)) very much agreeeing with you!!! )
Last edited by djdisturbed; 08-28-2008 at 01:59 PM. |
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#51 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Anyone else encountered such problems? When i turn the key, it clicks but it doesnt lock the trunk
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