DIY: Sound Deadening in trunk and rear seats

[rnrlove143]

very helpful thread, i actually think the stock sound deadening works just fine though- i have no rattle whatsoever

[treal512]

Originally Posted by rnrlove143

very helpful thread, i actually think the stock sound deadening works just fine though- i have no rattle whatsoever

now thats just crazy talk right there. the cabins in the Civic are not quiet at all

[obert]

NICE DIY,thanks for the info.

[tomasro]

^^^seriously. This person must have only owned their civic for a little bit now. I've had mine fir 3years now and it ratkles all the time. Specifically, when the subwoofer hits, the rear drivers side curtain airbag rattles. It's been doing that for over 2years now. But that's how you keep costs down, weight low and MPG high.

[benglish11]

Originally Posted by Dirrty187

Yeah so I was actually going to Dynamat my car next week.. I don't care about price, it doesn't matter to me. I want the best for my system. I'm putting 2 12s in my trunk next week and I want it to sound the best it possibly can. Anyone on here used Dynamat?

Dynamat will help with vibrations/rattling the metal but as for deadening the road noise it's not going to cut it. Its best to go with some sort of insulation.

[say55ow]

Question for those who have laid carpet padding down.

During the summer time - Has the padding cracked or emit any werid odors due to the extreme heat?

[RedFrost]

I have dynamat installed in my front two doors, at first It was quite a change. Drove down a road there working on and was considerbaly quieter. Took it on the highway and it just sounds alot better.

At the same time of doing this, I instaled JL audio Speakers and Subs. I went from muddy with my bass boost all the way up to even turning down the subs a bit.

Only issue i have now is the trunk will rattle, Im wondering if anyone has installed dynamat in there trunk and how it has affected the sound quality or anything else?

[treal512]

matting the trunk and the rear wheel wells will make a huge difference man. grats on your doors. i wanna get those done first, too.

[CarDriver]

I am having a meltdown because I've tried 726 different sockets and wrenches from my toolbox and cannot find a size that will remove the bolt that holds the sedan's rear seat in place. It's the bolt that can be seen when you push the twin passenger seatbelt receptacles out of the way. Ideas? I have about half as much hair now as I did this morning . Will keep trying different sockets...and the crescent wrench doesn't work for me because that spot down there is pretty hard to reach...

[CarDriver]

Nevermind, I see that it's a 10mm bolt. Will keep trying.

[Zeuceone]

yeah 10mm.

[PiKAniu]

damn for that price i cant wait to do this. im just curious as to how much i might need, in square footage, that i might need to do the whole car. trunk, floor, and doors.

for the doors, i have two thoughts on this.
1. you can put this padding on differnt parts of the panel itself to lower the know, but i know you cant put it on all of it because the panel wont fit right on the door.
2. why can you put spray some of the adhesvie on the metal part of the door on the other side of hte window against the outside part of hte door, then attach the cushion to it, then put rubber material all over it to protect it from mold/water. wouldnt that work?

other then the doors you should havent to worry about water anywhere.

[CarDriver]

Originally Posted by PiKAniu

for the doors, i have two thoughts on this.
1. you can put this padding on differnt parts of the panel itself to lower the know, but i know you cant put it on all of it because the panel wont fit right on the door.
2. why can you put spray some of the adhesvie on the metal part of the door on the other side of hte window against the outside part of hte door, then attach the cushion to it, then put rubber material all over it to protect it from mold/water. wouldnt that work?

other then the doors you should havent to worry about water anywhere.

Could you clarify a little bit please? I couldn't understand a few things =/.

Well, I ordered 1.5 rolls of RaamMat off their site. I believe that's 90 square feet. I did my whole trunk, 4 doors, rear deck of my sedan, under the rear bench seat & rear wheel wells, and in small 1''x2'' rectangles in many places in the plastic door panels and in the rear deck.
I have a lot of RaamMat left. I used about 1 and 1/3 rolls of Raam in this install.

I would have done the floors, but don't really have the stones to remove the front seats yet, plus the B-pillar trim. Doing the floors would be awesome, I think.
Oh yeah, in the doors, I applied everything to the bare sheet metal. If I get dents, I'm more or less screwed, but hey.

I also bought 5 yards of Ensolite foam from RaamAudio and used spray adhesive to apply the foam on top of all the RaamMat. Did 2-3 layers of the Ensolite foam.

Then I also cut out three strips of Neoprene padding foam, folded it thrice, then wedged it along the rear deck where it touches the glass. That was the single greatest improvement to my bass rattling problems.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Looking back on it...for the doors floors, and under rear seat and rear wheelwells, I would have done the RaamMat just the same, but instead of adding Ensolite foam, I would have insteadused a roll of some MLV Mass Loaded Vinyl. The goal with MLV for me would be to reduce road noise and all that stuff. The Ensolite foam isn't quite dense enough to make much of a difference. I assume spray adhesive would work to secure the MLV on top of the RaamMat.

[sbddude]

Anyone try this with Raammat?

[CarDriver]

Originally Posted by sbddude

Anyone try this with Raammat?

My trunk, trunk lid, rear deck, rear seat bench, rear wheel wells, rear fender panels, and 4 doors are all Raam-Matted. Works fine.
I believe they have a "Version 2.0" out right now or something, but I used the regular RaamMat and it's great.

Ensolite, on the other hand, is a joke in my opinion.
Ideally, for my doors, I would RaamMat the sheet metal door skins, then I'd spray-adhesive some MLV barrier on top (to absorb highway noise and the audible drone from driving on most roads).

[CarDriver]

Originally Posted by CarDriver

My trunk, trunk lid, rear deck, rear seat bench, rear wheel wells, rear fender panels, and 4 doors are all Raam-Matted. Works fine.
I believe they have a "Version 2.0" out right now or something, but I used the regular RaamMat and it's great.

Ensolite, on the other hand, is a joke in my opinion.
Ideally, for my doors, I would RaamMat the sheet metal door skins, then I'd spray-adhesive some MLV barrier on top (to absorb highway noise and the audible drone from driving on most roads).

What I did was RaamMat + 2-3 layers Ensolite foam on top, and the Ensolite doesn't do anything for sound absorption.

[SlamedSleepR]

nice i need to do that... my sub hit to hard and my car goes crazyy

[matchu865]

I shoved some old t-shirts under the shroud for the sub in the back of my si and it really helps reduce sub rattles.

[Used_n_Abused]

I just picked up a Civic LXS and the tires make a lot of noise on the expressway. This carpet insulation might do the trick for cheap, since I really don't need Dynamat that costs hundreds of dollars to do the whole car. I might consider it though for VERTICAL stuff like the wheel wells and firewall. I guess it depends how thick is the carpet insulation.

[matpav]

I just finished doing this on my car and wow what a difference. great DIY!!!!