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Old 10-16-2008, 04:38 PM   #21 (permalink)
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great this is handy to have.
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Old 11-07-2008, 01:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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This is a great write up. For anyone else doing this, a panel popper is great for the annoying white clip on the airbag panel. Just make sure to wedge it behind the black clip that the white clip is fastened to, then pop it right out. I stood outside the car and pulled towards me. Oh, and don't forget to unplug the 3rd brake light before you take out the deck.
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Old 11-30-2008, 02:15 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Much appreciation for this DIY!

I was apprehensive about messing with the side air bag panels, and some minor rattles (all rear deck associated) are all I have left after my audio install...

THANKS!
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Old 01-08-2009, 11:24 AM   #24 (permalink)
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i have a setup like most in the sedan with a sub in the trunk but after looking at this i wonder the feasibility to install the sub in the middle of the rear deck speakers- any thoughts
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2silverado04 View Post
My gf has a 06 ex sedan and I just installed some Infinity Kappa 12" subs. They put off so much freaking pressure that the rear speakers have busted from being forced to flex outward to far. However, I am not so sure about the foam baffles I've been seeing online these days. I know they are supposed to be great for doors but I am more worried about them "giving into" the pressure of the 2 12's. Should I DIY a fiberglass one or would the foam ones be sufficient. They are fairly cheap, but I do have extra resin and fiberglass mat lying around too. Really I just don’t want her to have wasted almost $300 on a pair of speakers for the woofers to bust them, that’s why I’m hesitant of the foam. If anyone has any experience with this I would greatly appreciate a little input. Thanks!

2 12's won't crush the foam baffles... And are you sure it was the 'pressure' from the woofers that caused the rears to succumb, or was it that you couldn't hear them distort over the bass and they blew? If you didn't run the rears off an amp with a HP filter (or use some sort of passive crossover) the latter is more likely. If the 'pressure' caused the speakers to die...the cone/surround would have to be seperated from each other or the basket.
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Old 03-10-2009, 03:05 PM   #26 (permalink)
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or the cone would have to be broken.
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Old 04-05-2009, 04:00 AM   #27 (permalink)
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guys i read a guy's post in this thread that we don't have to remove the rear deck to put in new speakers? is it true? can i just pop out the speaker grills? i have a 07 sedan btw.
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:16 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by asndragonboii View Post
Cant. Only the coupes can be done ALOT quicker. There's a DIY for that.
No, he's right. If you only want to only replace your rear speakers you don't need to remove the entire deck assembly. Found this out only AFTER I completely removed the entire panel. All you need is a flathead screwdriver to lift the grill panels from the deck panel and then you can proceed to remove the speakers without deck removal.
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Old 04-20-2009, 10:27 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by an3esh View Post
guys i read a guy's post in this thread that we don't have to remove the rear deck to put in new speakers? is it true? can i just pop out the speaker grills? i have a 07 sedan btw.
Correct. Just remove the speaker grills. I took out the whole deck to fix a rattle.
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Old 06-26-2009, 05:26 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Thanks for the DIY . Today, I want to install some sound damping material on the underside of the plastic shelf as well as the sheet metal underneath the shelf.

However, I don't understand what you mean in the beginning, when you say
1) "Remove the seat cushion"
and
2) "Remove the shoulder pad".


I'm sure I could figure both these things out eventually, but I'd rather just learn from you before I yank things apart. Are we supposed to just fold down the seatback? Or are we supposed to unbolt the seatbacks and then unbolt the seat cushion and remove it? I already know how to remove the seatbench and the seatbacks because I installed some Dynamat in the sheet metal underneath the seat today, but...well you can see what I mean with all this speculation. Clarification, please!

Also, what is a "shoulder pad"? lol, thanks
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Old 06-26-2009, 05:29 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CarDriver View Post
Thanks for the DIY . Today, I want to install some sound damping material on the underside of the plastic shelf as well as the sheet metal underneath the shelf.

However, I don't understand what you mean in the beginning, when you say
1) "Remove the seat cushion"
and
2) "Remove the shoulder pad".


I'm sure I could figure both these things out eventually, but I'd rather just learn from you before I yank things apart. Are we supposed to just fold down the seatback? Or are we supposed to unbolt the seatbacks and then unbolt the seat cushion and remove it? I already know how to remove the seatbench and the seatbacks because I installed some Dynamat in the sheet metal underneath the seat today, but...well you can see what I mean with all this speculation. Clarification, please!

Also, what is a "shoulder pad"? lol, thanks
Edit: Ehh, I looked in the other thread with the Civic diagram that shows what those "shoulder pads" are. Hmmm...I don't recall there being separate removable pads in my 09 sedan, but I'll definitely find out in the morning when I explore more .
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Old 06-26-2009, 02:52 PM   #32 (permalink)
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How do I remove the shoulder pads? Do I just yank on them hard? Or are there screw(s) that I need to remove...
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Old 06-26-2009, 04:23 PM   #33 (permalink)
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This site doesn't let me edit posts, so you'll have to enjoy the repeated questions I post as they come up . I removed the shoulder pads, plus the thin garnish strip of plastic from. the c-pillar airbag panel. I was able to remove the 3 red clips from the larger airbag panel, but I'm stuck on the black and white one. Even with my panel popper tool, it's barely budging, and I've already bent the sheet metal a little bit.

It's like Honda purposely designed the rear deck to rattle and made it nearly impossible to remove that panel to fix the issue...
Will keep trying.
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Old 09-20-2009, 01:50 AM   #34 (permalink)
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White clips need to be replaced!!

I'm not one to revive a dead or dying thread, but this is an important safety issue with removing the plastic molding around the side curtain air bags. The white and black clips that require you to bang on them to get them to release are one time use only clips and will not fasten again once they have been released. They have to be replaced with new clips. This is extremely important because this clip helps hold the molding to the pillar if the airbag deploys. If this clip is not working, the force of the airbag can cause the plastic molding come off of the pillar and hit the passenger in that seat, probably seriously injuring that person and potentially killing them. I would encourage anyone who has removed the molding around any of the side airbags to go to Honda and get some replacements. I discovered this after removing my driver's side A pillar molding to run a hands free microphone for my head unit. I have some clips on order (one for the front and a few spares) so hopefully I don't get in a wreck in the next few days. I really don't want the molding from the A pillar hitting me in the face. Oh yeah, the Honda part number for these clips is 91561-SJD-003.
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:12 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jshva83 View Post
I'm not one to revive a dead or dying thread, but this is an important safety issue with removing the plastic molding around the side curtain air bags. The white and black clips that require you to bang on them to get them to release are one time use only clips and will not fasten again once they have been released. They have to be replaced with new clips. This is extremely important because this clip helps hold the molding to the pillar if the airbag deploys. If this clip is not working, the force of the airbag can cause the plastic molding come off of the pillar and hit the passenger in that seat, probably seriously injuring that person and potentially killing them. I would encourage anyone who has removed the molding around any of the side airbags to go to Honda and get some replacements. I discovered this after removing my driver's side A pillar molding to run a hands free microphone for my head unit. I have some clips on order (one for the front and a few spares) so hopefully I don't get in a wreck in the next few days. I really don't want the molding from the A pillar hitting me in the face. Oh yeah, the Honda part number for these clips is 91561-SJD-003.
Sorry to quote the whole thing, but this is very useful and important information. It took me ages to figure out why my C-pillar airbag trim wasn't securing back into place...I only realized this when I kind fellow pointed out to me that the clips were one-time use only and needed to be replaced by purchasing them at the dealerships Parts Desk .

Very, very important info. Thanks for reminding us! If it helps, too...and you must describe the part to the Parts Desk clerk, you can always ask him to show you his diagram for the parts in the C-pillar airbag panel area, and the part is #25 on the diagram. They run about $3.25 apiece.
Thanks again .
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Old 09-20-2009, 02:12 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CarDriver View Post
Sorry to quote the whole thing, but this is very useful and important information. It took me ages to figure out why my C-pillar airbag trim wasn't securing back into place...I only realized this when a kind fellow pointed out to me that the clips were one-time use only and needed to be replaced by purchasing them at the dealerships Parts Desk .

Very, very important info. Thanks for reminding us! If it helps, too...and you must describe the part to the Parts Desk clerk, you can always ask him to show you his diagram for the parts in the C-pillar airbag panel area, and the part is #25 on the diagram. They run about $3.25 apiece.
Thanks again .
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:25 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Man I've been trying to figure this out for months I have 2 12' pionners in a custom bandpass and a crunch amp and my deck rattles like crazy I'm doing this first thing in the morning. But what size striping did you use?
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:46 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Man I've been trying to figure this out for months I have 2 12' pionners in a custom bandpass and a crunch amp and my deck rattles like crazy I'm doing this first thing in the morning. But what size striping did you use?
Doesnt matter what size. Just get a big peice of foam and cut it up. It doesnt need to stick because the rear deck will hold it in place.

For vertical surfaces, i think i used 3/4" - 1".
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Old 02-06-2010, 02:44 AM   #39 (permalink)
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im going to try foam this weekend
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Old 02-07-2010, 02:01 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Thanks to asndragonboii for the nice DIY. Thanks to jshva83 for the safety info. As a DIY'er it's great to have people take the time to post up stuff like this.
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