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#22 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Morris County, NJ
Age: 30
Posts: 85
Mike
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This is a great write up. For anyone else doing this, a panel popper is great for the annoying white clip on the airbag panel. Just make sure to wedge it behind the black clip that the white clip is fastened to, then pop it right out. I stood outside the car and pulled towards me. Oh, and don't forget to unplug the 3rd brake light before you take out the deck.
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#23 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 5
Kelly
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Much appreciation for this DIY!
I was apprehensive about messing with the side air bag panels, and some minor rattles (all rear deck associated) are all I have left after my audio install... THANKS! |
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#25 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Cape Girardeau, MO
Age: 35
Posts: 220
Ben
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Quote:
2 12's won't crush the foam baffles... And are you sure it was the 'pressure' from the woofers that caused the rears to succumb, or was it that you couldn't hear them distort over the bass and they blew? If you didn't run the rears off an amp with a HP filter (or use some sort of passive crossover) the latter is more likely. If the 'pressure' caused the speakers to die...the cone/surround would have to be seperated from each other or the basket. |
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#28 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 192
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No, he's right. If you only want to only replace your rear speakers you don't need to remove the entire deck assembly. Found this out only AFTER I completely removed the entire panel. All you need is a flathead screwdriver to lift the grill panels from the deck panel and then you can proceed to remove the speakers without deck removal.
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#30 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 1,952
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Thanks for the DIY
However, I don't understand what you mean in the beginning, when you say 1) "Remove the seat cushion" and 2) "Remove the shoulder pad". I'm sure I could figure both these things out eventually, but I'd rather just learn from you before I yank things apart. Are we supposed to just fold down the seatback? Or are we supposed to unbolt the seatbacks and then unbolt the seat cushion and remove it? I already know how to remove the seatbench and the seatbacks because I installed some Dynamat in the sheet metal underneath the seat today, but...well you can see what I mean with all this speculation. Clarification, please! Also, what is a "shoulder pad"? lol, thanks
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#31 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 1,952
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Quote:
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#33 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 1,952
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This site doesn't let me edit posts, so you'll have to enjoy the repeated questions I post as they come up
. I removed the shoulder pads, plus the thin garnish strip of plastic from. the c-pillar airbag panel. I was able to remove the 3 red clips from the larger airbag panel, but I'm stuck on the black and white one. Even with my panel popper tool, it's barely budging, and I've already bent the sheet metal a little bit. It's like Honda purposely designed the rear deck to rattle and made it nearly impossible to remove that panel to fix the issue... Will keep trying. |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 28
Jeremy
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White clips need to be replaced!!
I'm not one to revive a dead or dying thread, but this is an important safety issue with removing the plastic molding around the side curtain air bags. The white and black clips that require you to bang on them to get them to release are one time use only clips and will not fasten again once they have been released. They have to be replaced with new clips. This is extremely important because this clip helps hold the molding to the pillar if the airbag deploys. If this clip is not working, the force of the airbag can cause the plastic molding come off of the pillar and hit the passenger in that seat, probably seriously injuring that person and potentially killing them. I would encourage anyone who has removed the molding around any of the side airbags to go to Honda and get some replacements. I discovered this after removing my driver's side A pillar molding to run a hands free microphone for my head unit. I have some clips on order (one for the front and a few spares) so hopefully I don't get in a wreck in the next few days. I really don't want the molding from the A pillar hitting me in the face. Oh yeah, the Honda part number for these clips is 91561-SJD-003.
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#35 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 1,952
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Quote:
Very, very important info. Thanks for reminding us! If it helps, too...and you must describe the part to the Parts Desk clerk, you can always ask him to show you his diagram for the parts in the C-pillar airbag panel area, and the part is #25 on the diagram. They run about $3.25 apiece. Thanks again .
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#36 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 1,952
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Quote:
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#37 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Age: 23
Posts: 15
kelley
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Man I've been trying to figure this out for months I have 2 12' pionners in a custom bandpass and a crunch amp and my deck rattles like crazy I'm doing this first thing in the morning. But what size striping did you use?
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#38 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 5,167
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Quote:
For vertical surfaces, i think i used 3/4" - 1". |
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