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#82 (permalink) | |
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#87 (permalink) | |
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#88 (permalink) |
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![]() The Black Wire on the left is the ground wire, if the conector was cut off it should be the shorter of the two black wires of the wires that come out midstream of the wire harness. You can take a test light and find a known power wire and strip the end. Now take the grounding clip and clip it on the bare power wire, take the tip and touch the black wires to find your ground. Be carefull what you touch when you do this, you can blow a fuse or shock yourself if you are not carefull. Remember that the power wire and clip can short out as well as the tip..... If this dose not help you, find a friend that has worked with car audio or security systems to help you, or take it to a shop and have them do it for you. Not to be mean but if you have not done this kind of stuff before it is not a good idea to start cutting wires and tearing things up with out knowing what you are doing. Allways mark the wires before cutting them and know where they go to. If you want to learn how to do it then get a friend to help and teach you. You can realy f%$# things up if you are not carefull. |
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#90 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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T-tap?
I've wired up quite a few cd players for different cars, but all had a harness. I'm not sure what you mean by "t-tap"
. Could you explain? I assume this is a method to tap into the wire harness itself instead of cutting the wires and crimping the aftermarket radio's wires to it? If you have any pics of how you connected the aftermarket radio to the factory radio's harness I would like to see them.
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#91 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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Was also wondering for the T-tap.
Also, can't an aftermarket head unit with 22w rms or 35w rms damage the stock amplifier? I am seriously planning on buying the JVC KD-SHX850 and it has 35w rms outputs. Should I then bypass the stock amp? I wont use the stock sub either since I got my 12in. Very nice DIY by the way!
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#92 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Attachment 1314
A T-Tap is a piggy back wire connection, you put the good wire through the connector and your new wire beside it and close the connector. A metal bar cuts through the insulation and bridges the wires. I think there is a radio harness out now though. Might want to check that thread out... |
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#94 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Installer.com has one as well and I think they have the wire harness adapter now. If you want to order every thing from that honda dealer try giving them a call or look under the accords or elaments parts? But they should have it but it might not be listed on the web.
Here is the link for the other one. http://www.installer-data.com/item/d...php?it=40-hd10 Just looked at there wire harness, I dont think it is the correct one as it only has one plug. It might work for a civic without the factory Amp though. |
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#95 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Collegehills calls it an antenna feeder # 08B01-sna-100 But the part # is the same, I was looking at the cd tuner for that info. |
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#97 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
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I just finished my install earlier, but I put everything back in... The sound was horrible, with a very loud noise (poor S/N ratio??) I didn't have enough place for the harness, the PAC thing (for steering controls). How did you get all the stuff in, without choking the radio?? Also, is a HU usually loud? Mine was very "noisy". I bought a Pioneer DEH-P980BT. For 700$ here in Canada.. I expected it to be good. Or, could I have done something wrong? I used the 70-1722 wiring harness and just hooked up the sub remote power (only wire not in harness). Also, the tweeters were muh louder than the other speakers. Any hints on that would be greatly appreciated. Have a nice day.
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#98 (permalink) | |
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#99 (permalink) | |
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