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Old 05-08-2008, 04:42 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Whiterice, thumbs up

I've been searching for something like this now i can go up to at least 20 without any problem, I'm loving my Avic-Z3

there is a "shshshsh" sound from the tweeters, even when the volume is set to 0, but it's minimal compared to the way it was, anyway i'm not too concerned about as i'm looking at starting my audio setup very soon
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:05 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, this didn't work with my Alpine IVA-W505. If the volume on the headunit was maxed, you could just BARELY hear sound. So we wired some female ends to the speaker level outputs off the deck and connected them to the male ends we connected to the harness speaker wires, and worked like a charm.

Going to have to check the manual tomorrow, I was under the assumption the pre-outs wetre always enabled, but perhaps they're not. If they are enabled, then this doesn't work with this deck.
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Old 05-21-2008, 01:03 PM   #103 (permalink)
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I did this to install my Avic Z1 and so far so good. It sounds great - better than stock. I have a slight hiss coming from the rear when my lights are on. I think that's a bad ground on my part tho and I'm going to look at it tonight.
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Old 05-29-2008, 02:09 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k20z3 Koop View Post
I did this to install my Avic Z1 and so far so good. It sounds great - better than stock. I have a slight hiss coming from the rear when my lights are on. I think that's a bad ground on my part tho and I'm going to look at it tonight.
EDIT - Seems like the buzz was caused by a loose pin on one of the H/U harnesses. The amp integration works great on my Avic Z1!
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Old 06-01-2008, 02:53 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SiliconX View Post
Unfortunately, this didn't work with my Alpine IVA-W505. If the volume on the headunit was maxed, you could just BARELY hear sound. So we wired some female ends to the speaker level outputs off the deck and connected them to the male ends we connected to the harness speaker wires, and worked like a charm.

Going to have to check the manual tomorrow, I was under the assumption the pre-outs wetre always enabled, but perhaps they're not. If they are enabled, then this doesn't work with this deck.
That seems odd to me, it shouldn't matter what head unit you use with this harness. For me, it worked with an Alpine CDA-9835, Pioneer AVICD2, and a Pioneer AVICD3.

I'm glad to see that this DIY has helped so many people out there

Thanks for all the kind comments!
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Old 06-18-2008, 12:14 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Awesome write up. Im picking up my Avic D3 today and will be putting it in as soon as my boy gets back and installs my alarm.
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Old 06-25-2008, 10:08 PM   #107 (permalink)
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I did this and the rears do not work...I think it is because I have an aftermarket amp and sub combo hooked up via a LOC in back. If I wire all speaker wires to the FRONT, I get all 6 speakers and MY subs to work. I'm waiting on some new RCAs, but for now I will try to run a old RCA for my sub (Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD sucks for having 2 sets of RCAS and not 3) and then the fronts...that way the sub is sep. controlled.
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Old 06-26-2008, 02:16 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Anyone know why my rear/sub output on the Pioneer 4000 doesnt work? Is it because I have a LOC hardwired into the subs wires?
I'm going to change it up next week and run a 4chan amp...but curiousity is killing this cat!

At least I got all 6 speakers to work..and my 2 type Rs for the 5 hr trip tomorrow.
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Old 06-27-2008, 06:20 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Hey, how about the brake bypass on Pioneer 4000DVD? I am looking to install this soon. I know that the D3 you switch the mute wire or something.
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Old 06-27-2008, 09:44 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2008sedanSi View Post
Hey, how about the brake bypass on Pioneer 4000DVD? I am looking to install this soon. I know that the D3 you switch the mute wire or something.
put a togle switch on the brake line and ground it(brake line on 4000dvd harness
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Old 07-05-2008, 02:32 AM   #111 (permalink)
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I used this method on my IVA-W505, and it works flawlessly. I'm not sure why someone had trouble with this headunit. Thanks for the DIY!
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Old 07-08-2008, 01:28 AM   #112 (permalink)
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I just bought some Belkin cables to do this and I noticed that the wires in the rca cable are very small, about 22awg or smaller. Is that a problem?
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Old 07-13-2008, 09:16 PM   #113 (permalink)
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does this produce better sound or I mean louder cleaner sound then using the amp bypass that crutchfield sells? I already have the amp bypass harness from them and can't wait to begin installation on tuesday.
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Old 07-22-2008, 12:20 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Line Output Voltage Question

First of all, very good writeup... I was going to use a Quick Connect harness and a Parrot system to get Bluetooth into my Si... and from the looks of this, I can instead use my Pioneer DEH-P980BT headunit hooked up this way.

I did have a little question though as far as output voltage on the line outs. My HU has 5V 100 ohm output on it's line outs, and most of the other HU's I've seen have lower line output voltages (2-4V). Does anyone know if this would be an issue with using this method to input to the factory amp?

Sorry if this is a newb question, but I want to make sure that it's not going to tear up my factory amp.

Thanks again for the writeup.

Derek
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Old 07-22-2008, 03:48 PM   #115 (permalink)
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No I am actually running my speakers through the "Amp Integration" method instead of bypass. I'm gonna go ahead and return my amp bypass harness that I bought from Crutchfield soon. It works really well integrating into the factory amp. I get nothing but clear loud sound! It shouldn't be a problem your not going to blow up your factory amp. If anything it will take a very long time before anything happens to your factory amp. By that time your car will be old and probably be time to trade or sell your car LOL. On my aftermarket radio that I installed I'm running front outputs using RCA's for the front speakers and the rear outputs is for my 2 12's in the back. Unfortunately the my Pioneer DVH-4000 had only 2 outputs front and rear so there's no way I could run both subs and rear speakers to the back. You could use a splitter, but I tried that and figured it would be a bad idea since I enabled subwoofer on the settings you could literally blow your rear speakers in no time!

So what I did was this setup: FRONT outputs - FRONT speakers, REAR outputs - Subwoofers, and I just wired my rear speakers directly to the headunit's rear speaker wires. It works nice still this way, but you have to tweak the fader a little bit to get front and rear equal. My rears turned out to be louder then the front so that's why I tweaked fader.
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Old 09-04-2008, 03:02 PM   #116 (permalink)
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thnak you for the guide
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:45 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Okay so I'm getting ready to install me Jensen VM9311ts. So I'm understanding that in order for me to have my subs in the trunk and have all 6 of my speakers and factory sub and Aftermarket amp/sub to work and factory amp to work I need 3 preamps and where would I hook my remote wire to as well?
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Old 11-04-2008, 03:22 PM   #118 (permalink)
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all you do to get signal fro remote wire is connect to an ACC wire or some wire that turns off when you remove your key from the ignition. do not attempt to connect it to something that is always on you will exhaust your battery.
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Old 11-06-2008, 03:00 PM   #119 (permalink)
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ok so when you strip the wire theres a coating on the Negative side? right? and do you stript htat to or no do you just hook negative from speaker to that?
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:25 PM   #120 (permalink)
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So I hooked my Jensen VM9311ts today and have no sound not even a hiss what should i do.
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