07 Full audio system install (updated as I have time)

[ktwentyz3]

Just look for the socket that fits. If a 9 is too small try a 10. Its not that difficult.

[sk8nava]

man, i wish some of ya'll lived near me lol i need all the help i can get.
I like this though, its effin sick

[ReactorPwr]

Originally Posted by ktwentyz3

Just look for the socket that fits. If a 9 is too small try a 10. Its not that difficult.

my '08 actually required an 8mm--craftsman tools are pretty accurate on their sizing

[gus738]

Originally Posted by xxfrozen

Hey gus738, yea i'm active been busy though. I made a paint diagram for you. It's really terrible, but hopefully you can get the idea. Yes you need an amp bypass AND a radio harness.

Speaker wires coming from the speaker harness on the factory amp (under the shifter) go to the amp bypass, the red, yellow, and black wires are used in the radio harness only. So basically the radio harness provides the unit with power, and the amp bypass provides the unit with sound.

thanks bro it makse sense if you think about it for a bit, if understand correctly the only use the radio harness is to gather power ground and remote ? the bypass set goes to the socket on the stock amp and the other end goes to back of new indash? thanks again for the diagram

[jinman001]

Does anyone have any experience with a set up in a 07 civic si sedan where the baby blue amp wires are yellow and do not fit the standard amp bypass wiring harness for 06 and up civic si's? All the installation steps work until I get to bypassing the amp. Then, instead of a metal plate covering an amp with baby blue plugs, I see a silver box with two yellow plugs. This should be the amp right

[runeknight95]

Hey that hose you pulled out is the Air conditioning drain pipe, it drips water from your AC to the outside, I just broke off the rubber gromit on That and slid my amp wire through that whole with the pipe.

[scott1234]

Dose the factory amp take speaker level input? So if I replace my HU, install a 4Ch amp, can the factory amp be used for the factory sub and tweeters by useing a signal off of one of the channels of the new amp? ( this would be temporary )

[Mattd0344]

I just ordered some Alpine Type S components and was looking for a good place to mount my tweeters because the factory location doesn't seem to be the most adequate place to put them. Where would be an easy and effective place to mount them? I was thinking the sail panel where the side air bags are but im not sure how to take them out or if i should mess with those. FYI, I have a 2006 Civic LX Coupe

[bsbabcock]

Originally Posted by scott1234

Dose the factory amp take speaker level input? So if I replace my HU, install a 4Ch amp, can the factory amp be used for the factory sub and tweeters by useing a signal off of one of the channels of the new amp? ( this would be temporary )

Not sure the level (voltage or impedence) but it's not a speaker level signal.. it's a line-level signal and it's from memory 4 channels (F/R L/R) differential balanced. I personally wouldn't even bother with the factory amp because they've implemented some level of crossovers and possibly EQ to the factory amp that would make it a nightmare to work with.. And it's VERY underpowered. I'd just save up the duckets for enough amp channels you need.

Having said all that... If you're swapping to an aftermarket head unit, none will matter about those factory inputs.. The aftermarket HU will have it's typical RCA preouts.

[ascendotuum]

Originally Posted by Mattd0344

I just ordered some Alpine Type S components and was looking for a good place to mount my tweeters because the factory location doesn't seem to be the most adequate place to put them. Where would be an easy and effective place to mount them? I was thinking the sail panel where the side air bags are but im not sure how to take them out or if i should mess with those. FYI, I have a 2006 Civic LX Coupe

I noticed that also when installing mine. I think putting them on the A pillar (sail panel as you call it) will have them pointing directly at the dashboard, which isn't any better. Infact it may make it a little worse.

I just kept mine where they are. I don't have everything hooked up all the way yet, so we'll see how they sound. I may end up moving them later, except I've already dremel'ed up my tweeter grills

[bsbabcock]

Rather funny stock location the civics have... pointed directly up to reflect off the glass. Wonder if anyone has done a little 'modifying' to maybe surface-mount tweets there to point them more directional? Or in a different location for same result.

[Mattd0344]

Originally Posted by ascendotuum

I noticed that also when installing mine. I think putting them on the A pillar (sail panel as you call it) will have them pointing directly at the dashboard, which isn't any better. Infact it may make it a little worse.

I just kept mine where they are. I don't have everything hooked up all the way yet, so we'll see how they sound. I may end up moving them later, except I've already dremel'ed up my tweeter grills

lol ok sounds good. turn em up and tell me how they sound once you get them hooked up

[billy2346]

how many inches can fit if its a double din deck

[gr3yEX1]

Bill2346: Its about 4"

XXFrozen: When you point out to take the speaker wires that are no on the bypass and wire them to your aftermarket headunit, do you mean the aftermarket radio harness? Or is that connecting to the front and rear outputs on the back of the aftermarket head unit? I apologize this is going to be my 2nd time installing a radio, but I have never dealt with anything having a factory amp in the way. I think it makes life harder for me. Hopefully i'll get enough help from here and do a good job on the install.

[gr3yEX1]

Oops I meant connecting to the front and rear outputs using RCA cables that are tapped from the bypass. Is that what you mean?

[gn3ric]

Hey guys!

Sorry but, I can't tell the difference between these two and was wondering which one will come close to my match in my car. I have a 2007 Civic Ex (atomic blue) and I'm not sure if it's this one Honda Civic Dash Adapter Lets you install a brand-name car stereo in select 2006-up Honda Civics at Crutchfield.com
or this one Honda Civic Dash Adapter Lets you install a brand-name car stereo in select 2006-up Honda Civics at Crutchfield.com

i'm lost help

cheers,

gn3ric

[gr3yEX1]

xxfrozen,

I like the way the OEM dash kit looks its very factory like. But I notice you don't have trim kit around your radio. I can see a tiny gap around the frame of your alpine head unit. I see the blue of that blanket you laid prior to installation in your install pics. Somebody told me that if I got the OEM dash kit that I would have to find a dash kit because I'm doing a double DIN for a LCD dvd head unit. Would that apply only for me or even single DIN?

[gr3yEX1]

Originally Posted by gr3yEX1

xxfrozen,

I like the way the OEM dash kit looks its very factory like. But I notice you don't have trim kit around your radio. I can see a tiny gap around the frame of your alpine head unit. I see the blue of that blanket you laid prior to installation in your install pics. Somebody told me that if I got the OEM dash kit that I would have to find a trim kit because I'm doing a double DIN for a LCD dvd head unit. Would that apply only for me or even single DIN?

[gr3yEX1]

my bad I meant to post that but the system didnt allow me to go back and edit my post so I just made it as a quote. still my question though.

[aaronstern]

Originally Posted by xxfrozen

Ok I need to give major credit do xtv-sidecar's DIY. Thanx man it helped me a TON. I have a few things to contribute. Today was DAY 1 of my install project on my 2007 civic.

Here are the parts I ordered.

Crutchfield Part List
Honda Civic 06-Up Amplifier Bypass for Premium Sound (Item # 120701727)
Honda Antenna Adapter Motorola Male to OEM Female (Item # 12040HD10)
PAC SWI-X Steering Wheel Radio Control Interface (Item # 127SWIX)

In addition to the amp bypass you'll also need a radio wiring harness if you don't want to tap into your factory harness. Do a search for Scosche HA10B or a Metra 1722. I'm using the scosche in my install.

Honda Part List
Center Panel Gray (Part # 77250-SNA-A01ZA)/Center Panel Tan (Part # 77250-SNA-A01ZB)
Passenger Side Radio Bracket (Part # 77255-SNA-A00)
Driver Side Radio Bracket (Part #77256-SNA-A00)
DIN Pocket (Part # 08B60-SCV-100)

First a stock photo of the HU.


First off disconnect the negative connector on the battery. (10mm socket)


Then start at the bottom left corner of the steering column panel and pry towards you, (move the steering column panel as far up and out as you can). Once you get the first clip off off your set the rest.




This is the back of the under steering wheel column panel.

Using a flat head screwdriver pop out the panel under the stock radio near the shifter.



Ok the next part is a PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!!!!!. At first I used a philips screwdriver but then I realized using a 9mm socket worked better. There are 2 screws at the top of the front console pocket hole. You have to get on your hands and knees and manuever you head so you can see what I'm talking about. There are 2 screws use a socket don't use a screwdriver as mine were really hard to get out and you don't have a lot of room to work with.

Underneath the steering column there is another screw take that out as well. Now your ready to take the drivers side dash off. Again start from the bottom left once you pop the first clip your set for the rest. Don't pull it, give quick shark pulls till each clip gives way.
Make sure you disconnect the side mirror harnesses.

Now your ready to pull off the audio console. Same thing start bottom left and work your way up and around. You'll end up disconnecting 5 harnesses I believe, 3 of which are in the radio itself. Tuck these 2 wires away for later.


Now put your 2 audio consoles side by side and remake the new console with the old parts.
The vent will be the LAST thing you put on because you need to have access to the screws for your new radio bracket. Be carefull taking the lightrings off. I used a flat head screwdriver. First put in the AC/Heating component.

But be gentle, turn your rings as far to the left as you can so it will be easy to allign to the other console.


This is the full assembled audio console - the aftermarket radio.


Put your radio in with your new brackets and your DIN.


This is my Alpine IVA-D100 DVD player in the new audio console.


Now we need to find the factory amp and unplug the damn thing. It's located right under center console below the dash pocket.

I'm sure it's the same basic removal instructions for a stick, start by prying the area around the shift up and out which will release the center console. Since your battery is disconnected there is a small tab that if you press it in with a key or w/e it will let you shift down or move the shifter out of the way. I'll take pics of this tomorrow for everyone.

You can see your factory amp disconnect the larger harness on the right. Leave this unplugged.



Now since I plan on putting a sub in the trunk I need to get a power wire from the battery to the trunk. I looked for a long time to find the best position to drill through the fire wall. Pull up the carpet on the passenger side. Near the center console you will see a hollow pipe looking thing (not sure what this does but you can pull it off it goes back in easily by squeezing the sides and shoving it back through the hole it goes to the outside of the car) right next to this piece of piping drill a hole straight through the first piece of metal and then through the fire wall. I had to go to home depot and get a 1/2 gauge titanium bit and it went through very easily (price was $14.95 on the bit)


Solder your wires for your speakers. Or cap them w/e you choose.


Pull the very back of the center console off, should come off easily if you removed the 2 screws on the inside where the CD holder is. This will allow easy access to the carpeting.


Fish the power wire under the carpet.


Now pull up the back seat, there are 2 clips on on either side of the seat locking it into place. A good tug will release the clips. They're metal so don't worry you won't break them. Fish the wire under the seat.


After fishing the power past the back seat, lower you're back seat using the trunk seat release. Finally pull the wire through to the trunk.


Remove the trunk latch panel and take out the carpet panel covering the spare tire.

You will see a nice set of grounded wires perfect for you subwoofer or w/e use you have to ground your other wire.


It's a 10mm socket to remove the bolt.


Run your ground wire to where your amp will be I ran mine along the sides of behind the carpetting




Connect your amp and box and get that thing in the trunk and make your appropriate connections.


Use a votage meter to test your harness some Scosche HA10B have their power and grounds backwards. Be careful the wires.

Connect up your radio using your manufacturer instructions.


Make sure it works...

Now it's time to hide the mess of wires all over your car.


I hid everything under the the factory amp. It requires some kama sutra skills and some patience but don't half ass it. This step is really the most important of all as people will notice lol.

Put your dash back together and marvel at your job well done.







I have to take a break, I'm tired and it's easter and I'm missing some screws, damn cat -.-.

When it warms up I'll do the PAC programming for video bypass and steering wheel controlls :).

EDITS
4-1-07 Added Part List.
4-1-07 Day 2 sub woofer set up.
4-8-07 HU installed.

does a full system void the warranty in any way? i really want to put one in my 08 Ex but i dont wanna lose any warranties