Ok This DIY might take Several Days/weeks to fully complete, i will try to update everyday, i will save about 4 posts below me for future stuff so check back!
Im going to m ake the post with no DIY info in it, then will add as the day goes on for a couple of things just to get peolpe started... so mods please dont delete this
First DIY - Building the PC
Ok this is a Very easy process if you have built a PC in the past...
your really just building a normal PC in a small case...
all you need is Micro ITX mobo, with onboard video, alot of people use M1000 but since i already had this i used a Shuttle XPC barebone system... im not really going to go to indepth here with this.. but if you have questions either ask here or PM me
Second DIY - Molding the Navi Dash for the Screen
Pictures will come when i get home...
1. Buy the dash from honda, i'm not sure the part # but i just went to them and said i need the navi dash peice... (you do not need anything else.. dont let them tell you other! lol
2. Buy the Lilliput 7' screen or simular touchscreen - Link to lilliput
http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetai...Code=MON%2D001
3. Once recieve you need to take apart the Lilliput, here is a write up from mp3car on how to
As far as taking the lilliput apart, remove the four screws on back, there are four clips in the plastic housing. 2 on top, 2 on bottom, just apply pressure to the top and use something like a credit card (not a screw driver, it'll chew your casing up) to pry it apart. Take your time, and be patient, basically you don't want to rip the wiring apart when it pops open, once you get the top the bottom will come loose much easier.
after you have the casing open you'll notice 4 small tabs holding the LCD, take a screw driver and loosen the screws, turn the tabs and the LCD will come loose.
As far as the ribbon cables go, for those that haven't encountered connections like these, don't just pull them out. You'll notice on the connector a little colar this needs to be popped up, (only on the housing button panel) once you slide the colar up the cable will be very easy to pull out.
The ribbon cable on the back of the LCD has a different connector, basically it has a little plastic piece that pivots up to release the ribbon cable use a small flathead screwdriver to gentle pry this up.
Important: Both kinds of ribbon cable connectors are delicate and easy to break so know how they release before trying anything. And NEVER try to force them.
basically now your LCD is free... to get the circuit board out youll see the four small screws like you removed from the back of the case... remove those NOT the silver screws (those hold the USB control board on, if I remember correctly).
After you get the circuit board free you'll notice that the 9 pin connector can't be remove from the case... Now... Spyhunter actually cut his case to get it out... however I kind of wanted to keep that intact, don't be scared, make a wiring diagram or follow the link to the WRX site in SPYHUNTERs writeup for wiring, this is quite possibly the easiest soldering job I ever encountered. Note the wires, peel off the hot glue, de-solder pull the cable out of the housing, re-solder and hot glue them back in place (the hot glue probably isn't that important but I personally wanted to insure they'd stay in place)
now both the LCD and circuit board are free... go crazy.
BTW: Don't go crazy when you power the lilliput and nothing happens, just reseat the ribbon cables, in specific the wide one is a REAL pita to get reseated properlly... I personally had to reseat it at least 3 times to get it to come back up. It works great now though.
4. Once you have the front frame seperated, i took the, then took my dremel and cute the navi dash peice enough so that the frame would fit in there, cut as much as you need depending on the angle that you want, i like my almost straight up and down...
5. use glue to temp stick the frame to the navi dash peice so later on you can bondo right over it, dont worry how it looks...
(tip, i was sick of holding the frame while the glue dried so i just taped right over it... since it wont matter what it looks like as long as it holds..)
6, once the glue drys make sure none of it dripped down in the buttons or go in the way of the screen area, once you do this you are ready to go bondo!
7. this was the first time i ever used bondo so for those that dont think you can do it, its not bad... go buy the bondo, ill post of pic of the product when im home... then once you get it.. start with just a little to get things rolling, but you really just want to put as much as you have till you have the shape that you want, a good thing to remember is to use a straight edge and use some force to try to get rid of airbubbles, this helps for the sanding process and final steps
8. SANDING, this is a pain, it takes a while to get it just right, im still not even all the way there... i keep sanding, then adding more because i dont like how its coming out....
this is as far as i got... once you get it sanded... prime it, see how it looks, sand if needed then prime/paint