Honda Civic 2006-ONWARDS
DX, LX, EX, SI
This DIY, is semi-permanent: There is no cutting, trimming or modifications to your interior trim/panels. This installation can be reversed; however only one OEM Honda wired part is modified and is irreversible. Performing this installation is at your own risk. The author is not held liable for any damages made to you and/or the vehicle(s) and/or person(s).
This DIY uses information and OEM parts from a 2009 Honda Civic coupe, and is intended for 8th generation Civics without a USB port.
Required Parts List
Honda OEM parts list:
* optional, only if you have a 6ft USB cable
t optional equipment for Civic DX owners who don’t have an arm rest
Total Cost of OEM parts (including non-DX options): 101.09 USD
Non OEM parts list:
*optional, not covered in this DYI, but can be used as a supplement
Total Cost of aftermarket parts (excluding options): 103.90 USD
Total Cost of Build: 205.80 (excluding all other expenses such as shipping, duties and taxes)
XCARLINK
Features of the XCARLINK USB module:
• Compatible rear socket for an OEM stock radio is supplied
• Selects a song using your stock radio buttons
• Selects a folder using your stock radio buttons
• Displays song: position, track number and folder number
• No more CD’s in the car
• Keeps the OEM look after installation
FYI
In the aftermarket parts list, I’ve listed the optional modules for you to compare. However there are several draw backs of the XCAR Link USB module that you should be aware of: for one; the file structure must read as folder CD01, CD02, etc. only. Furthermore, the USB module does not display track details like song name and artist. The GROM USB module displays all track details; artist name; song name and album (according to their website). The Bluetooth hands free module by XCARLINK can be modified by having the mike placed on the small grill just below the Hazard button, and the call answer button on the steering wheel button cluster. The Bluetooth option MOD is not included in this DIY, but will be posted as a separate DIY.
Tooling & Supplies
Once you have acquired all the necessary parts for this build, you will require the following tools, equipment and supplies to complete this build:
*optional
t screw driver with a 15° bent tip substitute for the trim removal tool
*optional, but used in this DIY
BEFORE PROCEEDING
- Park the car at a leveled part of your garage. Place the car into NEUTRAL, and lift the HAND-BRAKE completely.
- Keep the radio code handy (found in the glove compartment of your car, or within the dealer sleeve and manual that came with your car)
- Record all your presets.
- Remove the black battery terminal from your car battery, wait three minutes before performing any work on the car.
Step 1 – Preparing your USB Wire Harness
Using the Diagonal Cutters cut the USB wire 1” (supplied with the XCAR Link USB module) from the male terminal. Perform the same procedure with the HONDA USB (39114-SVA-A01) on the male end.
Figure 1.1 USB color key
Strip 1 ½” of the wire sleeve using either your Wire stripper or the Diagonal Cutters on both the USB and the HONDA USB exposing all 8 wires (Be careful not to cut too deep into the sleeve).
Using the Wire Stripper, strip ½” of the RED, WHITE, GREEN and BLACK wires of the USB cable. Strip ½” of the HONDA USB cable: RED, PURPLE, BROWN and BLACK using the same Wire Stripper. Depending on the girth of the wire; use 20 AWG or 22 AWG to properly strip the wire. (Be careful not to sever the strands within the wires). Before connecting the wires, cut an appropriate amount of Heat Shrink Tub (x4) and partially re-sleeve the wire (Do not heat shrink the tube yet).
Using a set of pliers, connect the appropriate wires by twisting all terminal ends (Use the USB color key as a guide). Set the connected wires on the alligator clamps of your Helping Hands Magnifier. Apply a small amount of flux on the exposed wires with a small needle or a pin, heat the Solder Core and apply a small amount of solder to each of the 4 connected exposed wires. Completely cover the exposed wires using the already precut Heat Shrink and proceed to heat the tubes.
To check your work, use the Multi-meter by setting it to 20K OHM; connect the Red terminal end of your Multi-meter to one USB pin, and the Black terminal to the coinciding HONDA USB pin. The readout on the Multi-meter should read as ZERO for a proper connection. The default readout is 1 (as in no connection). Use the USB color key above to determine the appropriate connections. If there is no connection; try reseating your Multi-meter terminals deeper into the USB ports (they must touch the pins). Otherwise check your soldering or start over.
To complete this step wrap the strip wires with electrical tape and proceed to the next step.
*Optional – the OEM look
Use the Polyethylene (fire retardant) corrugated loom and proceed to cover the whole extent of the wire exposing 1” on both ends of the wire. Use electrical tape to cover both ends of the loom. Then proceed to wrap the loom with electrical tape from end to end leaving 1” spacing between each tape strand. Once done, it should appear like any other existing wire running in your car.
Step 2 – Preparing your USB Center Console Box
Take the CONSOLE BOX (PN# 83404-SNA-A21ZA) and proceed to assembly the USB CORD HOLDER ASSEMBLY (PN#39114-SVA-A01) to your USB cable USB CORD ASSEMBLY (A) (PN# 39117-SNA-A01) into the CONSOLE BOX.
Take the SOCKET ASSEMBLY (PN#39624-SZ3-L01) and connect the socket CAP ASSEMBLY (PN#39624-SZ3-L01) into the CONSOLE BOX.
Take the USB CORD CLIP (PN#39118-SNA-A01) and clip the part to the inner-side of the CONSOLE BOX.
Take the USB CONNECTOR HOLDER CLIP (PN#39115-TK6-003) and clip the part to the inside of the CONSOLE BOX. Plug the USB port into the clip to prevent it from moving and shifting in the final assembly process.
The complete assembly should appear as so:
Once you have completed this step you are ready to replace your old console with your new USB equipped CONSOLE BOX.
Step 3 –Center Console Removal Guide
FYI, if you doing this installation for a friend, clear out your shop table and prepare some shop blanks and towels for the interior trim and panels to sit on. Otherwise place the panels in a less travelled area of your garage where it won’t be scratched.
AUTOMATICS TRANSMISSION
Make sure that your car is in the NEUTRAL POSITION, and the HAND-BRAKE is completely pulled. There are 5 clips that surround the gear shift. Using your TRIM REMOVAL TOOL or your modified SLOTTED SCREW DRIVER; gently pull along the edges of the gear shift panel to remove all 5 clips.
Once you have loosened the gear shift panel, pull the panel assembly upwards and rearwards to free the panel. Set the panel on a shop blanket or table.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
Lower the shift lever boot by removing the clips that attach the shift knob to the shift boot. Twist the shift knob and remove. Remove the surround trim around the shift boot by prying around the edges with your TRIM REMOVAL TOOL. Once you have removed the gear shift trim, free the shift boot by removing all four clips that surround the boot. Once you have removed the shift boot, free the gear shift panel by removing all 5 clips surrounding the panel. Place all parts on a shop blanket or a free table.
Ensuring that you have removed the black terminal cable from your battery, proceed to unplug the counsel sub-harness (that feeds the plug to your center console) located in the crevice of the gear shift. (ATTENTION! SRS cables and connectors are identified by yellow connectors, cables and looms. DO NOT disconnect or touch any of these connectors!).
Remove the 4 bolts and bracket (located in the gear shift crevice) using your 12” PHILIPS 6mm SCREWDRIVER. Tape the free parts to your new console box.
2 plastic push-pin locks located underneath of the driver and passenger side must be removed using your TRIM REMOVAL TOOL. Tape these parts to your console box for safe keeping.
Within the old console box, remove the mat located at the floor of the console. Using your 12” PHILIPS 6mm SCREWDRIVER remove the 2 bolts located on the floor of your old console box. Take the two bolts and mat (For DX owners without the arm rest, you may choose to discard the mat) and tape this to your new console box for safe keeping and later usage.
Lower both front seats position them completely rearward. Proceed to pull the whole center console assembly rearward (towards the back of the car) and upward. Once freed place the center console assembly on a long table.
For civic owners who have a socket (cigarette lighter) in the center console box, turn the console assembly upside down and unplug the three prong wire feeding the socket.
Step 4 – Replacing your Center Console Box
Once you have placed the center console assembly on a table, using your TRIM REMOVAL TOOL; gently remove the center console rear cover by unlatching the 5 clips. Place the rear cover on a clear part of the table.
For civic owners who have an arm rest, flip open the arm rest and remove the pin holding the arm rest with your TRIM REMOVAL TOOL. Pull the arm rest up and out and place this on the table.
Turn the whole center console assembly upside down and using your 4” PHILIPS screw driver begin to remove the 8 fasteners that hold the center console box and cup holder in place (6x screws are located underneath the center console and 2x screws are located in the back of the center console). Place these fasteners in a secure location like a small plastic container.
Free all parts of the center console by gently unlatching all the components holding each other together (ATTENTION: at this point of the process keep note how all the components latch and fit together). Once you have freed the old center console box, replace it with your newly USB equipped center console box!
Before proceeding to the next step, remove the old center console wire harness located underneath the console. Replace the old wire harness with the SUB-WIRE, CONSOLE (32104-SVA-A01). Proceed to plug the USB and SOCKET located underneath your new USB console box, and proceed to secure all clips of your wireharness to the under carriage of the center console. DO NOT assemble the center console back to the car yet.
Step 5 –Dash Board Removal Guide
For some models, remove the black boot-cover located underneath the steering wheel by turning the latch clockwise.
There are 2 clips holding the boot-cover with the dash board. Free the part by gently pulling at the outer edges of the part and place it on your table.
Remove the coin pocket trim located underneath the steering wheel by gently pulling the outer edges of the part. There are 8 clips that hold this part to the dash board.
Once you have removed the coin pocket trim, half way between the steering wheel and the power mirror controls, 1 fastener holds the mid-dashboard trim to the frame. Using your 4” PHILIPS screw driver, remove the fastener and tape it to the coin pocket trim for safe keeping.
Gently pull the outer edges of the mid-dashboard panel freeing the part from the frame. There are 10 of clips that hold the part together.
DO NOT pull the part completely out as there are wires that feed the power window and dashboard controls on the panel.
Having a firm grip of the part (or have a friend help you with this) with one hand unplug the wire harness behind the panel. Pull the part up and outwards avoiding scratching the steering wheel. Once you have freed the part place it on a clear area of your table.
Just above the shift lever, using your TRIM REMOVAL TOOL unlatch the panel covering the lower panel of the radio.
Place a vanity MIRROR underneath the panel to view the 2 fasteners holding the radio to the dashboard frame.
Using your 8MM SOCKET, a ¼” DRIVE RATCHET DRIVE and a ¼” EXTENSION BAR, and with the aid of a mirror and FLASHLIGHT, unscrew the 2 fasteners (DO NOT use your 4” PHILIPS screw driver as these screws have been fastened by a torque wrench; improper removal will ruin the head of the screw. Tape the screws on the panel cover and place it on a clear part of your table.
You can now remove the radio panel by gently pulling at the outer edges of the radio.
DO NOT pull the radio out completely; wire harnesses are connected to the climate controls buttons, radio, passenger-airbag indicator, and the hazard button.
Using one hand to hold the Radio, with your free hand unlatch all 4 wire harnesses in the back of the Radio (TIP: feel for the tabs located above the connector and with your index finger push down on the tabs and pull gently at the stem of the wire out with your free fingers).
Step 6 – Installing the USB module
Place the Radio on a steady part of table. Take your TIE WRAPS and proceed to secure the module on the rear frame of the Radio.
Pull the tie wraps tight as to ensure that the module is secure and will not rattle when the car is moving.
Measure the USB module’s rear wire harness from the connector to the rear socket of the Radio and wrap any excess wire. Plug the USB module’s rear wire harness to the radio.
Take the USB wire harness you made in Step 1 and plug the USB end to the module. Reassemble the radio (be sure to plug all 4x wire harnesses) and take the remaining USB wire harness and relocate it behind the dashboard panel (provide enough slack for the harness to reach the shift lever).
Once you have done this, reverse the order of Step 4 and Step 5 to complete the assembly.
For Civic owners who have purchased the DX version, this is an opportunity to have a complete arm rest for the Center Console Box. Replace and install the following parts in Step 4 to have your OEM arm rest installed!
USB port in action:
You can select the folder and songs using your radio buttons
You can use a USB key, MP3 player, SSD drive or an SD reader to play music
If you have any question, comments, suggestions, concerns on this DIY or any of my other DIY or DIY in progress please feel free to drop me a line. If you have any problems performing this your self, feel free to ask. GOOD LUCK!
~mush360~