Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutchcargo
A smaller bar up front makes no sense to me either. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong but if you don't pair the front and back, the backend will be stiffer and the unloaded rear tire could actually lift off the ground.
If you set the camber correctly with the SI or stiffer front sway bar, I don’t know how by using an LX it could be faster in the turns. It doesn’t make logical sense to me.
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ummm just to let you know and to give you some must needed information...what determines whether your car is neutral, understeer, or oversteer is the RCD or roll couple distribution. basically the difference between the stiffness from the front when compared to the rear of the car...the stiffest part of the car will give out first so a stiffer front end will break traction before the softer rear causing understeer...alot of stock si guys run a bigger RSB and a smaller LX front sway to offsett our nose heavy, static camber gain, macpherson strut front suspension cars...this not only makes the front end softer ...which is what you want...but also stiffens up the rear for throttle lift off rotation and rotation in general in tight corners...this is the optimal setup/fastest setup for track...the fastest way a fwd will make it around a track isnt a neutral setup but a slightly oversteering setup...usually accomplished by bigger rear sways and rear spring rates over double that of the fronts...
a perfect example is the realtime acura rsx...over 150 000 dollar car and the slightest inkling of throttle liftoff the rear end rotates and causes oversteer...it takes a profressional skilled driver to master that fwd setup but when it works it WORKS...
Just letting you know there are plenty threads on suspension theory, toe, camber caster, alignment specs all stickies....please read those and you will most likely find the answer yourself in which you will learn more then just asking people for the answer!