8th Generation Honda Civic Forum - View Single Post - How To: Install XM on a Non-Navi XM Ready Civic Coupe/Si (56K'ers go go take a nap)

***Gone*** · 02-16-2006, 07:13 PM

Well, it took me about 4 hours total, but I was being picky and decided to do the install like an OEM install, with all the wire ties and stuff (not to mention taking pics). The only thing I didn't do OEM is put the antenna in the front passenger's side top corner of the windshield (who the hell wants it there?!)

Heres what you need:
OEM Honda XM Radio Kit
-includes tuner, brackets, antenna, Bus cable, antenna splitter and all the bolts, tape, wireties and wireties with clips you could ask for.
2 Flathead screwdrivers
Phillips screwdriver
8mm, 10mm and 14 mm rachet w/ extension
Scissors
Masking Tape
A shop rag (or something to drape other dash parts with)
Your Radio Code (you'll have to put it in to use the radio)
Now, I didn't disconnect the negative battery terminal, but you can (and probably should) if you do this.

Remove the lower passenger's side dash piece (below the glove box) by pulling it towards the rear of the car. 4 clips hold in place (in red circles) Then unscrew 2 phillips screws going up into the dash (above the yellow arrows)

Push in the 2 side flaps of the inner glovebox and remove the glove box.

Pull steering wheel out and up all the way. Remove the lower driver's side dash (8 clips) by pulling out again.

Unscrew this screw

Cover the steering wheel (trust me, you'll hit it) and mask off the radio panel's left border, just incase you hit it (blue arrow) Start pulling from where you removed the gold screw and go clockwise pulling the clips out (11 clips). Then unplug the harness behind the brightness buttons (green circle).

Stick 2 flathead screwdrivers in these 2 tabs and pry it out. Up inside there, there are 2 screws, take 'em out (its kinda hard to get to them unless you lie on your back on the floor)

Mask off the dash around the top and right borders of the radio with masking tape. Start in the bottom left corner of the radio and work your way clockwise pulling out all 11 clips. Unplug all the radio and HVAC harnesses.

This is what your poor car looks like at the moment...

Unscrew the shift knob counter-clockwise and remove the nut under it on the shifter lever. Pull the silver shifter surround out and pull the boot and surround over the top of the shifter. *Make Sure the E-Brake is all the way up* and pull from inside the console (above the blue arrow) up and out (5 clips)

Inside the center console, pull out the square rubber mat and unscrew these 2 screws.

Back up at the shifter, unscrew these 2 screws *Be careful, the aluminum they go into is very flexible!*

Down in the footwells, these 2 clips (on on each side of the console) pop out with a flathead screwdriver.

Grab the back of the center console and in front of the shifter (blue arrow) and pull the console back, up and out. Try to keep the front ends of the console out so they don't scratch anything (you might want to cover the E-Brake) There is a small harness for the E-Brake light that you need to unplug (yellow circle)

Now onto the back of the car.

This next part is a b**** to do, or at least I had a hard time with it! Behind the cushion here (red circle), there sits a 14mm bolt (you'll need the socket extension)

This is the little MoFo here... You have to pry back the seat cushion while attempting to line up your socket (14mm) and keep it on there while turning it.

Pull up on the fronts of the seats to unlatch the hooks and pull the whole rear seat cushion out.

In the trunk, the floorboard attachment hooks over the rear seat hinges. It is held in place with 2 clips. Pull the floor out.

The trunk latch cover has 2 clips (red circles) and 2 pegs that go into a set of holes (yellow circles). Pull this whole piece up and towards the FRONT of the car (I broke one of the clips, but it still stays on OK...)

The passenger side trunk liner is held in place by 3 plastic screw clips (turn the center counter-clockwise until it comes out) and a !*#$@% little bastard clip in the floor. I broke this one too, but in my defense it was in there good! Pry it out by pulling a little on each side of it, it'll come out sooner or later. Push the right side rear seat forward and pull the liner out.

Now we lay the cable. Route the BUS cable under here. Leave yourself enough cable in trunk to reach to the trunk door.

Run the cable under the side panel with the electrical harness already running through there. Then run the BUS cable under the steel seat support into the footwells. *DON'T ZIP TIE OR TAPE ANYTHING YET, YOU MIGHT NEED MORE CABLE UP FRONT*

Run the cable along the footwell's rear wall and down under the carpet in the the center of the car to the opening under where the center console sits.

Keep following the electrical harness up the right side of the center console area, then cross over to the left side just ahead of the shifter.

Run the cable up in the dash along the yellow arrow, then feed it into the area behind the radio.

Give yourself enough BUS cable to plug into the back of the radio, then pull the slack to the trunk while zip tying the BUS cable to the harness you followed to the front of the car. You can tie the extra cable together in the trunk.

Whenever you get a large enough piece of painted metal, use a piece of cushion tape to secure the BUS cable and protect it. I did it about 8 or 9 times by the time I got to the trunk.

Now this is where I put my antenna, but you can mount it anywhere you want. This thing has enough cable to install it just about anywhere you want (it was made to be put in the front windshield!) I ran the wiring down and under the seat belt then along the corner behind the seat to the trunk.

Run both wires back up the inside of the trunk's right front wall, taping and tieing as you go.

This is where I wrapped up the extra antenna wire with some ties. Tape it up good, as it is heavy. Then use some wire ties w/ clips. The green circles are where you use the wire ties w/ clips and attach the clips into the trunk wall holes.

This hole is where the cables are going into. You have to use these special strips of tape (EPT tape; included in kit) to insulate the edges so it doesn't wear the wire away.

Run the cables through the hole and out from behind the wall near where the trunk drain is. Hopefully you have enough cable to plug everything in.

I forgot to take pics of the tuner and where to put the brackets and splitter on it, but its fairly easy. These picures should help. Plug everything into the right connectors (they won't fit in any hole but the right one.) and tape all the wires onto the back of the tuner (opposite side as the brackets).
BUS cable = yellow arrow
Antenna = green arrow
Splitter (changes 2-pin antenna jack to 1-pin for ant.) = blue arrow

This pic shows the brackets on the other side. Loosely put the included bolts into the holes in the brackets, on opposite corners. You'll know which corners because one side's bracket only has one hole.

Hang the tuner behind the trunk wall and align the bolts with the oblong holes (the tuner will hang diagonally) Tighten the bolts with a 10mm socket.

Cut the ends of all the wire ties, put everything back in the car and set up your XM radio.

You are officially DONE.
Enjoy your XM Satellite Radio!

02-16-2006, 07:13 PM	#1 (permalink)
*Gone* Go BUCKS! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Columbus, Ohio Age: 25 Posts: 807 Andy iTrader: 4 / 100%	How To: Install XM on a Non-Navi XM Ready Civic Coupe/Si (56K'ers go go take a nap) Well, it took me about 4 hours total, but I was being picky and decided to do the install like an OEM install, with all the wire ties and stuff (not to mention taking pics). The only thing I didn't do OEM is put the antenna in the front passenger's side top corner of the windshield (who the hell wants it there?!) Heres what you need: OEM Honda XM Radio Kit -includes tuner, brackets, antenna, Bus cable, antenna splitter and all the bolts, tape, wireties and wireties with clips you could ask for. 2 Flathead screwdrivers Phillips screwdriver 8mm, 10mm and 14 mm rachet w/ extension Scissors Masking Tape A shop rag (or something to drape other dash parts with) Your Radio Code (you'll have to put it in to use the radio) Now, I didn't disconnect the negative battery terminal, but you can (and probably should) if you do this. Remove the lower passenger's side dash piece (below the glove box) by pulling it towards the rear of the car. 4 clips hold in place (in red circles) Then unscrew 2 phillips screws going up into the dash (above the yellow arrows) Push in the 2 side flaps of the inner glovebox and remove the glove box. Pull steering wheel out and up all the way. Remove the lower driver's side dash (8 clips) by pulling out again. Unscrew this screw Cover the steering wheel (trust me, you'll hit it) and mask off the radio panel's left border, just incase you hit it (blue arrow) Start pulling from where you removed the gold screw and go clockwise pulling the clips out (11 clips). Then unplug the harness behind the brightness buttons (green circle). Stick 2 flathead screwdrivers in these 2 tabs and pry it out. Up inside there, there are 2 screws, take 'em out (its kinda hard to get to them unless you lie on your back on the floor) Mask off the dash around the top and right borders of the radio with masking tape. Start in the bottom left corner of the radio and work your way clockwise pulling out all 11 clips. Unplug all the radio and HVAC harnesses. This is what your poor car looks like at the moment... Unscrew the shift knob counter-clockwise and remove the nut under it on the shifter lever. Pull the silver shifter surround out and pull the boot and surround over the top of the shifter. *Make Sure the E-Brake is all the way up* and pull from inside the console (above the blue arrow) up and out (5 clips) Inside the center console, pull out the square rubber mat and unscrew these 2 screws. Back up at the shifter, unscrew these 2 screws *Be careful, the aluminum they go into is very flexible!* Down in the footwells, these 2 clips (on on each side of the console) pop out with a flathead screwdriver. Grab the back of the center console and in front of the shifter (blue arrow) and pull the console back, up and out. Try to keep the front ends of the console out so they don't scratch anything (you might want to cover the E-Brake) There is a small harness for the E-Brake light that you need to unplug (yellow circle) Now onto the back of the car. This next part is a b** to do, or at least I had a hard time with it! Behind the cushion here (red circle), there sits a 14mm bolt (you'll need the socket extension) This is the little MoFo here... You have to pry back the seat cushion while attempting to line up your socket (14mm) and keep it on there while turning it. Pull up on the fronts of the seats to unlatch the hooks and pull the whole rear seat cushion out. In the trunk, the floorboard attachment hooks over the rear seat hinges. It is held in place with 2 clips. Pull the floor out. The trunk latch cover has 2 clips (red circles) and 2 pegs that go into a set of holes (yellow circles). Pull this whole piece up and towards the FRONT of the car (I broke one of the clips, but it still stays on OK...) The passenger side trunk liner is held in place by 3 plastic screw clips (turn the center counter-clockwise until it comes out) and a !#$@%* little bastard clip in the floor. I broke this one too, but in my defense it was in there good! Pry it out by pulling a little on each side of it, it'll come out sooner or later. Push the right side rear seat forward and pull the liner out. Now we lay the cable. Route the BUS cable under here. Leave yourself enough cable in trunk to reach to the trunk door. Run the cable under the side panel with the electrical harness already running through there. Then run the BUS cable under the steel seat support into the footwells. *DON'T ZIP TIE OR TAPE ANYTHING YET, YOU MIGHT NEED MORE CABLE UP FRONT* Run the cable along the footwell's rear wall and down under the carpet in the the center of the car to the opening under where the center console sits. Keep following the electrical harness up the right side of the center console area, then cross over to the left side just ahead of the shifter. Run the cable up in the dash along the yellow arrow, then feed it into the area behind the radio. Give yourself enough BUS cable to plug into the back of the radio, then pull the slack to the trunk while zip tying the BUS cable to the harness you followed to the front of the car. You can tie the extra cable together in the trunk. Whenever you get a large enough piece of painted metal, use a piece of cushion tape to secure the BUS cable and protect it. I did it about 8 or 9 times by the time I got to the trunk. Now this is where I put my antenna, but you can mount it anywhere you want. This thing has enough cable to install it just about anywhere you want (it was made to be put in the front windshield!) I ran the wiring down and under the seat belt then along the corner behind the seat to the trunk. Run both wires back up the inside of the trunk's right front wall, taping and tieing as you go. This is where I wrapped up the extra antenna wire with some ties. Tape it up good, as it is heavy. Then use some wire ties w/ clips. The green circles are where you use the wire ties w/ clips and attach the clips into the trunk wall holes. This hole is where the cables are going into. You have to use these special strips of tape (EPT tape; included in kit) to insulate the edges so it doesn't wear the wire away. Run the cables through the hole and out from behind the wall near where the trunk drain is. Hopefully you have enough cable to plug everything in. I forgot to take pics of the tuner and where to put the brackets and splitter on it, but its fairly easy. These picures should help. Plug everything into the right connectors (they won't fit in any hole but the right one.) and tape all the wires onto the back of the tuner (opposite side as the brackets). BUS cable = yellow arrow Antenna = green arrow Splitter (changes 2-pin antenna jack to 1-pin for ant.) = blue arrow This pic shows the brackets on the other side. Loosely put the included bolts into the holes in the brackets, on opposite corners. You'll know which corners because one side's bracket only has one hole. Hang the tuner behind the trunk wall and align the bolts with the oblong holes (the tuner will hang diagonally) Tighten the bolts with a 10mm socket. Cut the ends of all the wire ties, put everything back in the car and set up your XM radio. You are officially DONE. Enjoy your XM Satellite Radio! __________________ Last edited by Gone; 08-05-2006 at 10:48 AM.