8th Generation Honda Civic Forum - View Single Post

cojaro · 12-14-2006, 11:28 PM

I figured I might was well do a DIY for this. The DIY section is a bigger medium to get the idea of Si sways on non-Si's out there.

Here's what ya need:

14mm socket wrench
jackstands

and a buddy is helpful always, but not necessary

Parts needed:
Front sway bar upgrade:
51300-SVB-A02 SPRING, FR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $67.47
51306-SVB-A01 BUSH, FR. STABILIZER HOLDER ----- 2 x $1.44

Rear sway bar upgrade:
52300-SVB-A01 SPRING, RR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $34.55
52306-SVB-A01 BUSH, STABILIZER HOLDER ----- 2 x $1.39
52308-SVB-A01 HOLDER, STABILIZER BUSH ----- 2 x $2.04
52317-SVB-A01 BRACKET, R. RR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $3.02
52318-SVB-A01 BRACKET, L. RR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $3.02
93401-10020-08 BOLT-WASHER (10X20) ----- 4 x $0.93

NOTE:The DX does not come with a rear sway bar, so you will also need to order the bolts and endlinks in addition to the above:
(part #40) 93401-10020-08 BOLT-WASHER (10X20) ---- 4 x $0.93
(part #28) 90002-S10-000 NUT, FLANGE (10MM) ---- 2 x $1.68
(part #32) 90212-SA5-003 NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM) ---- 2 x $0.31
(part #15) 52320-SNA-A01 LINK, R. RR. STABILIZER (right endlink) ---- 1 x $10.60
(part #16) 52321-SNA-A01 LINK, L. RR. STABILIZER (left endlink) ---- 1 x $10.60
The self-locking nuts hold the endlinks to the swaybar; the flange nuts hold the endlinks to the control arm; the four bolt-washers hold the Si L-bracket on. Here's a picture to help you DX owners:

So I started with the front sway bar. I jacked the car enough for me to get under it and the fun began. I first undid the brackets and bushings (make sure it doesn't swing down and hit your head). I then tried the side bolts. See the little silver-looking bolt that connects to the end of the sway bar?

I didn't even bother trying to even REACH that thing. It's connected to a ball joint with an arm (think bones) to another balljoint which is then connected to the car (see the rusty bolt in the pic below). It kinda looks like a bone with ball joints at each end and 4 purple dots on each ball joint. I then undid it there and took the sway bar out, and switched the bone-like balljointed things to the new sway bar. It really helps to have something or someone hold it up because it's much heavier than the stock front sway.

I then went to the back. Here's a pic comparing the EX rear sway with the Si rear sway. Big difference.

I got under and started from the middle first, like before. I took the brackets off and then tackled the weird bone-like joints and took them off the old sways and put them on the new Si sways. (btw, the ends of the screws on the bone-things will probably be a little rusty, WD-40 helps)

Before:

After WD-40: tada!

With the rear sways, you should have a L-bracket and some new bushings. No need to take the old bushings and L-brackets off the old sway bar because they won't be needed. (here's a pic oh the L-bracket on the old sway on the car)

Finally, I got under the car and put the rear sway in. It helped to steady it by putting the bone-thing's screws in the holes first (to hold it in place) then screwed the nuts on. Again, the screws are not exactly fun to deal with; my arm hurt so bad after loosening and tightening so much. and last, I screwed in the L-brackets to the body and BOOM easy suspension/handling mod.

Review: Oh my God. The ride feels amazing. It actually feels less bumpy and there is a noticeable lack of body roll as well as less shaking at higher speeds. I took her to 100mph that night and instead of the steering wheel and my arms battling, it felt more like I was going 60-65; much more planted to the pavement. I highly recommend this to anyone who's looks for a cheap mod. I paid $135 in all and it was completely worth every cent spent.

edit: bone-like things = endlinks; I didn't know what they were called at the time.

12-14-2006, 11:28 PM	#1 (permalink)
cojaro Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Memphis Age: 20 Posts: 1,217 iTrader: 1 / 100%	Si Front and Rear Sways on DX/LX/EX I figured I might was well do a DIY for this. The DIY section is a bigger medium to get the idea of Si sways on non-Si's out there. Here's what ya need: 14mm socket wrench jackstands and a buddy is helpful always, but not necessary Parts needed: Front sway bar upgrade: 51300-SVB-A02 SPRING, FR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $67.47 51306-SVB-A01 BUSH, FR. STABILIZER HOLDER ----- 2 x $1.44 Rear sway bar upgrade: 52300-SVB-A01 SPRING, RR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $34.55 52306-SVB-A01 BUSH, STABILIZER HOLDER ----- 2 x $1.39 52308-SVB-A01 HOLDER, STABILIZER BUSH ----- 2 x $2.04 52317-SVB-A01 BRACKET, R. RR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $3.02 52318-SVB-A01 BRACKET, L. RR. STABILIZER ----- 1 x $3.02 93401-10020-08 BOLT-WASHER (10X20) ----- 4 x $0.93 NOTE:The DX does not come with a rear sway bar, so you will also need to order the bolts and endlinks in addition to the above: (part #40) 93401-10020-08 BOLT-WASHER (10X20) ---- 4 x $0.93 (part #28) 90002-S10-000 NUT, FLANGE (10MM) ---- 2 x $1.68 (part #32) 90212-SA5-003 NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM) ---- 2 x $0.31 (part #15) 52320-SNA-A01 LINK, R. RR. STABILIZER (right endlink) ---- 1 x $10.60 (part #16) 52321-SNA-A01 LINK, L. RR. STABILIZER (left endlink) ---- 1 x $10.60 The self-locking nuts hold the endlinks to the swaybar; the flange nuts hold the endlinks to the control arm; the four bolt-washers hold the Si L-bracket on. Here's a picture to help you DX owners: So I started with the front sway bar. I jacked the car enough for me to get under it and the fun began. I first undid the brackets and bushings (make sure it doesn't swing down and hit your head). I then tried the side bolts. See the little silver-looking bolt that connects to the end of the sway bar? I didn't even bother trying to even REACH that thing. It's connected to a ball joint with an arm (think bones) to another balljoint which is then connected to the car (see the rusty bolt in the pic below). It kinda looks like a bone with ball joints at each end and 4 purple dots on each ball joint. I then undid it there and took the sway bar out, and switched the bone-like balljointed things to the new sway bar. It really helps to have something or someone hold it up because it's much heavier than the stock front sway. I then went to the back. Here's a pic comparing the EX rear sway with the Si rear sway. Big difference. I got under and started from the middle first, like before. I took the brackets off and then tackled the weird bone-like joints and took them off the old sways and put them on the new Si sways. (btw, the ends of the screws on the bone-things will probably be a little rusty, WD-40 helps) Before: After WD-40: tada! With the rear sways, you should have a L-bracket and some new bushings. No need to take the old bushings and L-brackets off the old sway bar because they won't be needed. (here's a pic oh the L-bracket on the old sway on the car) Finally, I got under the car and put the rear sway in. It helped to steady it by putting the bone-thing's screws in the holes first (to hold it in place) then screwed the nuts on. Again, the screws are not exactly fun to deal with; my arm hurt so bad after loosening and tightening so much. and last, I screwed in the L-brackets to the body and BOOM easy suspension/handling mod. Review: Oh my God. The ride feels amazing. It actually feels less bumpy and there is a noticeable lack of body roll as well as less shaking at higher speeds. I took her to 100mph that night and instead of the steering wheel and my arms battling, it felt more like I was going 60-65; much more planted to the pavement. I highly recommend this to anyone who's looks for a cheap mod. I paid $135 in all and it was completely worth every cent spent. edit: bone-like things = endlinks; I didn't know what they were called at the time. Last edited by cojaro; 04-20-2007 at 11:48 AM.