This DIY is for lowering the sub-frame and removing, modifying, and installing the oil pan on a 2006 Civic SI in order to support the
All Japanese Performance turbo kit. This thread is for informational purposes only and assumes that you have an impact wrench (to support the removal of bolts, a shop manual (to look up the torque specifications when installing), a torque wrench (to do its job), a variety of other tools and have already removed the front bumper. I accept no responsibility for any problems or issues that you may encounter. With that being said...Here we go!
First, you will need to jack the car up and place it on four jack stands (or raise the car on a lift). Remove the front passenger tire and set it aside (this will allow access to the side oil pan bolts and a few others that will be easier to access). Next, remove the front lower splash guard from underneath by removing all clips that secure it to the vehicle. Set the lower splash guard aside.
At this point, you are ready to start the process of removing the mounts and bolts that secure the sub-frame to the vehicle. Begin by removing the two bolts that hold the cover that shields the flywheel and connects to the transmission and oil pan.
Remove the bolt that holds the rear mount to the bracket that connects to the oil pan, remove the four bolts that hold the bracket to the oil pan, and remove the bolt that connects the rear mount to the sub-frame (still installed in the below PIC).
Remove the two bolts on the bracket (already modified in the below PIC to support the turbo kit installation) that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame.
On the other side, remove the one bolt (already partially removed) on the other bracket that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame.
On the front mount, push up on the lower radiator hose to remove it from the holding bracket. You can also see the nut that holds the bolt that will be removed in the next step.
Remove the bolt that connects the front mount to the sub-frame.
On the driver's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody.
On the passenger's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody.
On the passenger's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt.
On the driver's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt.
On the driver's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt.
On the passenger's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt.
At this point, the sub-frame will only be connected to the suspension mount points on both sides of the car. In this state, you can lower the sub-frame like a see-saw for front or rear clearance as needed.
Remove all remaining bolts holding the oil pan secure and use the claw of a hammer to pry the oil pan away from the block as can be seen in the below PIC.
The following PIC merely shows the clearance and why the subframe needs to be removed in order to remove the oil pan.
Pull down on the front portion of the subframe and remove the oil pan. Here is a PIC looking from underneath after the pan has been removed.
Now it is time to modify the oil pan. You will need to drill and tap the pan to install the oil return bung (I used a different bung from that supplied with the turbo kit).
Next, I applied a bit of JB Weld to the threads and tightened the oil return bung.
Here is a PIC looking from the inside.
Now it is time to modify the oil pan. Use a 2 1/8" hole saw to make the needed cuts as can be seen below.
Next, use a die grinder to smooth the edges and test fit the intercooler pipe to make sure that it has enough clearance.
I replaced the stock oil drain plug with a magnetic one as can be seen in the below PIC.
Clean the bottom of the block where the oil pan connects and ruff it up with a bit of fine grain sand paper.
Clean the top of the oil pan where it connects to the bottom of the block and ruff it up with a bit of fine grain sand paper.
Apply liquid gasket material to the top of the oil pan and follow the directions with respect to the wait time before installation of the oil pan.
Reinstall all of the vertical oil pan bolts and tighten in order as described in the shop manual. Torque to required specifications. Then install the the remaining bolts. The following PIC shows the oil pan installed.
The following PIC shows where the gasket material squeezed out to where the flywheel is located. Once the gasket material has set, be sure to remove this excess gasket material as well as that on the other side of the oil pan near the belts.
I may add more to this DIY later, but with the above you should be able to figure out how the rest goes back together.