Quote:
Originally Posted by djdisturbed
Well..... you DONT need a 2nd alternator for a 2nd battery, I used to have bass comp set up and ran a 2nd battery and NEVER had to add a second alternator for it, now if i had more then just the second battery then i would have to add one or more. BUT that also depends on your current alternators output and you can always put a better output alternator in instead of adding a second one. BUT its much better then just using caps alone. I had an issue with killing my main battery with caps alone in my old vehicle, but with a second battery installed i never had an issue and the bass was alot cleaner. But then again, if you are not running that much power then its no big deal. I was pushing 1600 watts out of one amp (in mono) and 800x4 in the other amp.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdisturbed
i still think its funny that everyone is running 0 gauge wire and not even using enough power through there system to warrant 0 gauge wire. I ran a 2nd battery on my old bass comp truck with 2000 watts pushing 2 18's and a 400X4 amp and i didnt even have to run 0 gauge wire. I was running 2 gauge to the 2nd batt and 4 gauge wire to the amps, and this was dong by the shop who owned/designed the old stroker van that one the loudest vehicle for 2 straight years (infact my 2nd battery was out of that van). I'm not saying that you sould not do it, I'm just saying its a little overkill unless you are setting up high power audio comp systems.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdisturbed
no, the system was designed by me and a spon in Ral who held the loudest vechicle in the world status for 3 years, Creative Acustics, Stroker Van. I was running 1-bd1000 Rockford Fostage amp with the dual VC speakers set up as a 1 ohm load), a Rockford fostage 400a4, all these went into a fuse box mounted on the amp wall (front part of the sub enclosure, but not part of the actual sub box), also into the sub box was a 600watt dc/ac converter to run playstation (also ran my dj euiptment off of it), off this cam a 2gauge wire to the 2nd batt (optima yellow top) concealed in the base of the wall. The 2nd batt got power from a 2gauge wire running from the first battery/altenator with a 40amp circuit breaker on it (originally used a 40 amp fuse, but the fuse kept breaking (like cracking in half) due to vibrations. stock alt. and normal batt under the hood. My mids/highs were MB Quarz componant speakers (before they got bought out) and my head unit was a kenwood Video touchscreen (before they started putting dvd players in them) will TV reciever. this was in a 97 dodge dakota extended cab, with the full backseat removed and replaced with the subs and amp, the 2 18" dual VC rockford subs pointed straight up with a comp. tuned box, pushing 145.9bd of bass to the front windshield, i could have gotten more db by adding a 2nd bd1000 to the system with a 2 ohm load on each b/c it was designed to do this if we wanted without having to re-do too much of the set up (if you saw it you would know what im talking about), but i didnt feel like re-enforcing my windows, also if i would have taken the head liner out i would have gotten a few more db's but at the same time, i wanted it to look somewhat good inside. this was back in 1999 or so ( give or take a year or so)
As for what I know about running power things in vehicles, I worked for a Communication shop for a long while, installing police lighting and 2way radios (with some of the larger ones pulling ALOT more power then any audio system you will put in a civic, think about a fire dept moble command truck). We didnt even keep 0gauge wire in the shop b/c it was never really needed, Exp when you can run 2 smaller power wires for much cheeper then running 0gauge. But then again, what Do I know, i just studies lighting and sound system design for theatres in college (wich those amps draw even more power than any veichle can handle, i know, diff type of thing, but i still have to design the power source for these things as well when i design a system). Plus I have been install car audio since 1995, and police lighting and 2 way radios since 2000. Plus, did i say I'm a FCC licends radio operator, witch means i had to take many test on electrical systems (FCC id KF4ZZE)
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is it me, or does the story change a little???
dude, ill tell u what
anyone can go to college a breeze through, and yes most people should never put a second battery in their car... in fact most that win comps have only 1 battery
BUT they do have upgraded wires and alternators
160.1 decibels is pretty loud but i have personally seen a few more than that lol
what a person NEEDS in their new civic IS an upgraded alternator, because its never gonna handle another 40-80 amps when it can only produce enough amps for the current needs of the car (which in our case is about 120 amps)
also on TOP of that, if your car has a 90 amp alternator as does my gfs, and you add an 80 amp system, think about the wear and tear to an alternator which is always FULLY taxed???
our civic comes with a 120 amp alternator
anyone putting a medium end system in can expect at least 80 amps of draw from their new system. (again depending on what items are being used)
if your car is putting out 120 to start with, u can almost expect it to be using 3/4s of that ALREADY!!!!
and the alternator puts out at around 14.4 on most vehicles (14.6 on mine)
and your battery stores at 12 volts.... so do the math and ull see that dipping down into your battery means extra strain for your WHOLE system it just CANT handle.
unless your putting in 1 150 RMS sub and keeping stock speakers and headunit, expect there to be strain to a system at full blast.... as for me i drive around with the system loud because thats how i like my music... ill be deaf by the time im 30 but thats my choice
also i never ASKED for your credentials, i just asked you to not give advice when u cant get you "what ive done" story straight.....
people WILL most likely need 4 gauge wire, some 1/0 :-) 2 gauge is perfect for most :-)