Now I'm not saying NOT to use 0 gauge wire, use it if you want BUT, in MOST set-ups its a little overkill. unless you are running a very high power system with LONG wire runs you typically wont need it. Part of the reason that we didnt have to use 0gauge wire on my set up was the run from the 2nd battery to the amps was short and i was not getting much resistance from a long wire run. same thing with the wire going to the 2nd battery (wich was about the same length as going to the trunk in the civic b/c i had to cross over the engine bay to the other side to run it in the truck). There have been times when i DID need to use 0gauge (and bigger) on set ups, but they were pushing alot more power then i was in the truck (wich i dont see you average 8th gen owner trying todo, i many civic owners spending 0ver $6000 on just speakers,amps and custom boxes/installs when that $ is much better spent on our engines
) I have had to run 00gauge wires for one of my friends set-ups, but he was also doing a bass comp walled van. he was hitting 160.1 db of bass with that system, with a 57 hrz feq. on a 2 second burp, my system was 145.9 with a 54hrz burp, gotta love tuned systems to optimize you spl's).
I think my set-up for the mugen is NOT going to be a bass set up, its going to be a IASCA type set up, going for overall sound quality not SPL's. I'm already well known in this area's club scene for my great sounding club audio systems i design, so next I'm going for that hifi Home theatre sround sound type thing in the mugen. I got a sub box design that if it works right will give me both the strong punch i like with a a good sounding rumble without havingto put in the big guns and taking up all my trunk space (using some of my club style sub designs, using both a front mounted sub and a short throw horn type sub enclosure using 2 diff size subs). but its goingto be REALLY fun getting that IASCA sound without all the rattles that the civics are bad for, i might want to buy stock in dynamat... lol