[Moose]

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Moose - thanks for your replies in my email, good luck this weekend!

With regards to running DTC-60 up front and HP+ rear..

Will the different pad compounds not throw off the brake bias cos of the stupid BC?

If not, that makes my life a lot easier.. only swapping two rotors/4 pads instead of the whole shabang.

Bad weekend - Lost/blew fresh motors in Both cars during practice :Mad: ... back home after a 6 hour drive


There is only one way to find out
The HP+ have good initial bite, good cold bite, and a fairly aggressive MU ... when they are up to temp, they should be close to relative grip as the fronts. BUT this is also dictated by your driving style, and your cars setup ... the more agrressive you are the more front brake bias you will require typically.

I have allways run an Agressive Front track pad (swapped track pads in at the track) and a Aggressive street pad out back on my combi track/DD cars

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

Okay so I will try the DTC-60 on the front and what about the hawk black for the rear? The blacks start at 100 degree. I do not see the DTC30 on the tirerack site. Did not think about the rears not getting hot enough compared to the front.Where do you get your pads from?

Just ordered my stuff to do the camber. So I was right on the tire size and wheels. What do you run in the rear for camber? -1.5? Do you keep these settings for the street of do you get a new alignment after track days?
So you like the toyo's, who do you get them thru? Do you shave and heat cycle them? Are you doing mostly autocross or open track. Because I will be doing only open track events so not sure if that would still be your choice of tire. Keep the good info coming, do you ever do any events down south?

Start with the front pads ... and then evaluate if you need a more aggressive rear pad to complement your driving style and setup.

Camber - I run -3 all arround ... I just rotate my tire regularily and swap and flip them on the rims every oil change ... This is a VERY aggressive setup ...but it makes for a terrific track setup. This sort of alignmnet wil SAVE your tires when on the track.

I feel that Toyo RA1's /R888 are the best value in a R-compound for lapping and the occational racers as they last a long time, heat cycle well, and are very predictable. There are faster / stickier tires (like the R1's) out there, but they are expensive and do not last as long typically.

I order tires thru a race-tire distributor here in Canada, or get used "take-offs" thru the race team I work with... I will ALLWAYS order shaved and heat-cycled R-comps .. full tread depth RA-1 wil overheat and wear badly unless they are used in the rain as a true rain tire.

Originally Posted by jrotax101

Moose gets his tires from the race team he works for, or gets new, i believe. So they will be heat cycled

Also, as far as i know, moose is a track guy and its all HPDE/open track days.

He said in the email to me he runs -3 on all 4 wheels

YUP - I run currently -3 all arropund, but I m continuoulsy evaluating and tweeking my setup ... This setup is optimised for HDPE and Lapping only ... I may try to dial in some more front and a bit les rear camber ... plus I am looking at a differnt front bar and a custom rear bar ...all these changes will influence my alginment settings.

Originally Posted by jrotax101

i think he does it himself before and after

I am -2 -1 but i'm gonna get a camber gauge and put it to -3,-2 when i track.. as my Pro-c's go up to -5 like moose's

Originally Posted by DRIVEN1

How hard it is do it at the track? Never seen anyone do it before so I am clueless on how it is done. Thanks

It is fairly easy ..but a bit time consuming to do ... all you need is four jack stands, some tubing, a couple of tape measures, and level ground. You build a string box to measure TOE and then correct for. Do a search on Honda Tech for "String box" there is a good write up there on the process annd parts required.

Moose