Quote:
Originally Posted by PR_S14
Does someone mind telling me how this is a "ram air" intake. Looks to me like the snorkel comes out where the CAI filters are placed. You mean to tell me there is forced air in there? How will this intake make 8-10 more hp while moving?
If I am missing something here please show me.
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Quite simple really. Joey said that it could be hooked up to the foglight on an FG2 or one could use the lower bumper intake and connect flex tubing to the scoop they are using.
This is a high pressure area. The air will be forced in do to the higher pressure created at the lower bumper area. Once this air enters the inlet, it will be rammed into the intake airbox.
If there is not a connection to the foglight as Joey mentioned, you still would get some air in there, although not as much as if the foglight area is ducted to the scoop.
I explained why it will make 8-10 hp in a previous post. For every 10 degree drop in intake temperature, there is a corresponding 2 hp gain. Bearing in mind the ambient air temperature inside a hot engine bay, it is not unrealistic for air temps to be 40-60 degrees cooler due to the rammed air, which is denser, and the enclosed airbox.
I for one am quite pleased with the overall look of the airbox. My only concern as I stated previously is the MAF sensor position. I still contend it would be better to run a sectioned MAF housing and connect to the airbox, rather than installing the MAF sensor in the cover.
The other issue that is pressing is price. I would assume that wil the carbon fiber cover and scoop/duct, the price will be close to $500 or more. If you look at King Motorsports Type R airbox for the Si, it is $700 w/o cf. If you look at the Gruppe M, which is almost $1200, then, it is a bargain.
BTW, water should not be a problem unless you drive through water one to two feet deep. The T1R seems to be quite similar to the factory setup for drawing air in.