Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerstrike
Moose,
I appreciate the reply. I can understand your theory about filling in those rims with bigger brakes, because small brakes with large rims look weird. But it cant be always the case. Correct me if Im wrong, but the DC2 Type R debuted as a 96 model with 15 inch wheels. In 98 Honda change the wheels to 16 inches and with it increase the size of the brakes as well. I doubt Honda make this brake change for looks only. Also, the rest pretty much stayed the same, with minor touches done to some suspension components and the final drive ratio, but nothing that would add enough weight that they would need bigger brakes. This is just my thought.
I myself am planning to start tracking my Si this summer. I was considering a BBK myself, both for more consistent braking(since brake fading seems to be a weak point of the Si) and looks, but after reading this thread Im too worried to screw up the brake bias of the car. I guess I will go a different and less expensive route. We shall see. Thanks again.
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Most of the USDM DC2 ITRs came with 15" rims (I think 16" were an option on the later ones) ... the JDM ITR'S came with 16" rims mostly
Brakes on the DC2 ITR were 11"F and 10" rear for the entire production run and could run 15" rims. The regular DC2's had 10.2" f and ~9.5" rear rotors.
The only variation in brakes for the DC2 ITR's was the 96 JDM ITR which was a 4x114.3 bolt pattern (I "think" they were also 11" front rotors ...but could have been 10.2") ... and that changed to 5x114.3 bolt pattern for 97 on.
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Brake Fade is more a function of the Brake pads and fluid than the rotor / caliper. I would start with a good set of pads and fluid first ... it is way cheaper ... and IF that does not work out for you ... then look at a quaility BBK ... Keep in mind that not only do you have to pay for a BBK, but also potentially for more rims / tires that will clear the calipers.
If you are heavy into lapping then a dedicated set of rotors and good race pads is the way to go ... this way you have a streetable setup, and a setup that is good for the track.
It is dead easy to swap rotors and pads at the track ... 1/2 hour and you are done. I used to do it all the time.
Moose