Edit 05/26/07: The new Cable shifter bushings do not use snap rings.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Corsport
Our cable bushings no longer use the snap rings, we use the much easier to install clips. Also our cotter pins are the improved rod style with the bumps on one side.
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If I get my hands on a new copy of the instructions, I'll edit this properly. I apologise to anyone using this and is confused by the parts listed. Please be aware that at the time I posted this DIY, CorSport had not yet done a great update to an already fantastic product.
Original Post:
Ep3Racer954 did a great DIY on CorSports Cable shifter bushings. I just wanted to add on few notes for the non mechanically inclined. I used a copy of CorSport's Directions as provided by Tai in this thread
CorSport Metal Cable Shifter Bushings= Merged Threads I've also added Pictures into some parts.
Here is the first DIY.
DIY: Cable Shifter Bushing Install by Ep3Racer954 I highly recommend using the original DIY. It was a great help to me.
Originally posted by Tai of CorSport
"CorSport Shifter Cable Step-by-step instructions:
1) (optional) You may need to remove the stock airbox or even potentially the battery in some applications to expose the top of the transmission and the shifting cables.
What you'll see if you have a CAI installed or upon removal of the airbox
2) Unbolt the shifter cable housing brackets from the transmission (OR remove clips holding cables to the brackets)- this step is key to avoid kinking your shift cable and not having to force the cable end off the shift arm pin.
The three bolt heads you see use a 12mm socket and must be removed to loosen the bracket.
These are the three bolts the longer bolt is the bolt at the bottom left of the first picture.
3) Remove the stock bushings cotter pin
4) *Slide* the cable end off the shifter arm pin with your bare hands (the cable ends are the large brass ring that the bushing fits into)
5) Pop the factory bushing and the *factory washers* out of the cable end.
There will be a little plastic washer under each metal washer as well!
6) Insert the new bushings into the cable end (do this carefully and slowly and keep the bushing straight to avoid binding it) ... Optionally, apply some grease to the shift arm pin (don't need a whole lot as there's not too much travel accross on the pin itself) or you can lightly sand the inside of the cable end ring to enable the bushings to slide in easier.
7) *Slide* the cable end back on the shifter arm pin with your bare hands - again with the cable disconnected from the transmission brackets this just slides on with no effort. At this point, do not reinstall or use any oem/washers or cotter pins.
9) Use some snap ring pliers ($5 at a Local Auto Store) to place the snap ring on the new aluminum bushings (if E-Clips were sent instead simply pop them into the snap ring being careful NOT to drop them)
Snap Ring pliers, good tool but expensive at AutoZone.
10) Use a pair of needle nose pliers (or your bare hands) to put the new cotter pin in.
What the finished product will look like. If you received snap rings for the larger bushing, its easier to have the overhanging lip end on the bottom. The snap ring will then snap on from the top. You'll see the indentation for it when you recieve your bushings. You can see the snap ring ends on the larger bushing. The ends are at approximately 1 and 2 'Oclock on the bushing
11) Reinstall intake and you're done.
Install should take 10-30 minutes."
* If I hadn't been a doofus and dropped the stock washer I would have been done faster. Aside from the 5 minutes I spent trying to fish that thing out of a cramped spot, it took me about 20-25 minutes to install the whole thing.