The rear doors were significantly more difficult than the front doors, surprisingly. The original text in my first post is wrong about the wiring for the rear doors, so I'll go over it here (and edit my first post).
Taking the rear door panels off is a bit more involved than the fronts. Be prepared either break some clips or the door panels themselves (where the clips attach). These suckers are on there good. A good investment for the rear door panels is the door panel remover.
Start removing the door panel from the bottom. There are two clips on the bottom. This is the best place since there are cutouts in the door panel to slide the panel remover in. Then work your way up. You can see the white clips in the picture. If you get a clip stuck in the door, the best way to remove it is with a long needle nose plier or the panel remover. Note that the rear door lining is only plastic (and not rubber like the front) so its less pliable if you pull on any of the wires/cables coming out...plus, be carefull of the black goop (see the second pic)
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Now, for the wiring. These doors are completely different from the fronts. There are only 5 wires in each door...note that the colors don't mean the same on both doors. For the rear left, the positive is the red and the ground is the purple. For the rear right, the positive is the purple and the ground is the red. Follow the same procedure for these doors as for the fronts, using t-taps
Rear left
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Rear right
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This is the piece you'll drill a hole in...note the ribs on the back side (as mentioned in my first post).
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Here is the final product...the rear right door and the front and rear right doors. You'll need to wait for night to make any final adjustments to the intensity of the lights (can be done by blocking off some of the light with electrical tape, model paint, or whatever else...the LEDs don't get too hot, so don't worry too much about that).
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