8th Generation Honda Civic Forum - View Single Post - DIY: License Plate LED Replacement & Trunk Light LED Replacement

itzbinnice · 01-01-2008, 03:18 PM

I am considering adding more light to the trunk of my 08 LX sedan. I came up with this possibility. I intend to mount a 12" LCD light bar using two sided tape right behind the existing light fixture.
I want to keep things as simple as possible, I don't want to use a cold cathode tube since it requires a transformer and adding more clutter. The LCD can be wired direct to the existing switch.

From what I could see I discovered the trunk light does not operate on a mercury switch, the only time it will shut off is when you close the trunk. Within the locking assembly, when the trunk is closed it breaks the negative wire going to the light, the light has a constant hot on in it. Doing the littlest damage possible my intentions are to solder two wires directly to the switch and snake them in to the existing short harness to the LCD light bar for a nice clean install.

If you remove your trunk light you will see two exposed brass bars one is hot, the other a ground. I want to solder in two small male terminals to these bars, then connect the two female connectors wires going to the LED bar. I suppose I could just solder the wires to the bars but I’d like something a little stronger. In theory this setup should work using the existing wire with no damage due to splices. If down the road you're not happy, simply unsolder the two terminals from the switch, pull out the wires, and remove the bar and you'll be back to original factory setup.
For those not having soldering irons, if you use two T-taps into the existing wire should work, but you will have to remove the short piece of wire loom to get at the wires, and more than likely leave it off once the tap has been made.

Two problems I am having, I can't seem to locate a 12" led bar that is rigid and comes with two sided tape. I did a google search as well as superbrightleds.com and unable to find a suitable bar. The second problem is the male terminals that will need to be soldered. I would need a terminal configured with a 90 degree material. One part of the terminal flat that I could solder to the switch, the other portion of it shaped that it will accept a small female terminal.

Any opinions on this setup are welcome as well as suggestions of what bar to use and how or where to get the terminals needed for the connection to the LCD light bar.

01-01-2008, 03:18 PM	#125 (permalink)
itzbinnice Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Long Island NY Posts: 9 iTrader: 0 / 0%	I am considering adding more light to the trunk of my 08 LX sedan. I came up with this possibility. I intend to mount a 12" LCD light bar using two sided tape right behind the existing light fixture. I want to keep things as simple as possible, I don't want to use a cold cathode tube since it requires a transformer and adding more clutter. The LCD can be wired direct to the existing switch. From what I could see I discovered the trunk light does not operate on a mercury switch, the only time it will shut off is when you close the trunk. Within the locking assembly, when the trunk is closed it breaks the negative wire going to the light, the light has a constant hot on in it. Doing the littlest damage possible my intentions are to solder two wires directly to the switch and snake them in to the existing short harness to the LCD light bar for a nice clean install. If you remove your trunk light you will see two exposed brass bars one is hot, the other a ground. I want to solder in two small male terminals to these bars, then connect the two female connectors wires going to the LED bar. I suppose I could just solder the wires to the bars but I’d like something a little stronger. In theory this setup should work using the existing wire with no damage due to splices. If down the road you're not happy, simply unsolder the two terminals from the switch, pull out the wires, and remove the bar and you'll be back to original factory setup. For those not having soldering irons, if you use two T-taps into the existing wire should work, but you will have to remove the short piece of wire loom to get at the wires, and more than likely leave it off once the tap has been made. Two problems I am having, I can't seem to locate a 12" led bar that is rigid and comes with two sided tape. I did a google search as well as superbrightleds.com and unable to find a suitable bar. The second problem is the male terminals that will need to be soldered. I would need a terminal configured with a 90 degree material. One part of the terminal flat that I could solder to the switch, the other portion of it shaped that it will accept a small female terminal. Any opinions on this setup are welcome as well as suggestions of what bar to use and how or where to get the terminals needed for the connection to the LCD light bar.