just a few pointers of how I do, you can find many writeups.
Buy some real white cotton towels at sears, pennys, or linen store.
Alot the cotton from pakistan that you will find in parts stores and walmart
is not real.
I haven't had any luck with the microfibers for taking off wax or drying,
I don't think they are real cotton, and don't absorb water.
Wash the car with dawn dish liquid, with car cool and not in any sun, you don't want this to waterspot, keep flushing with lots of rinse water,
squeeqe and dry. If it's a super clean or new car you may use car soap
but dawn will be better to strip off any wax.
Cut clay bar into pieces, mothers clay is good, mcquires may be cheaper.
The blue Clay Magic is cheapest but stiffer and hard to knead.
Knead a piece into a pancake, lubricate well and work back and forth in the direction the wind goes. Don't push down let the clay do the work. Use lots of lube. If you feel like you hit something large, check the clay and pick
off the piece of trash.
Go over spots and stains rapidly until they dissapear.
You feel the progress and know when a surface is smooth and clean.
If you hit a rough and dirty spot, turn and nead the clay often.
If car is really dirty replace the clay pieces often. The top surfaces, rear
quarters, and tail will be the dirtiest. Do the bottom last where youll
pickup tar and dirty the clay.
After clay, wash with good car soap, NXT is my favorite car soap.
The wax works best if cured overnight and removed in the morning, lower
humidity is best. Two coats is best.
I have a theory that a new car needs waxed frequently like every
two weeks then regular intervals, I'll get the door
jams, underside of hood, troughs around the trunk opening etc when new.
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Originally Posted by Black_civic_Si
little new here about wax...but what is the process of doing this properly. I head about claying is it before waxing, thankx
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