Excellent work there. Helped me alot with planning my upgrades now that I know it's possible to install tweeters without disassembling the entire dash!
I'm sure this will help a great deal on putting in new speakers fairly soon (tomorrow I hope). I'm sort of a noob at this because I haven't seen or done a speaker swap before since my other cars weren't worth the effort. So I got a question... the plastic cover over the speaker on the outside panel.... is it removable? Last night I installed the Interior Illumination Kit and then I was looking at the thing... tried to pry it with my hands... tried to gently pry it with a small flat-head but nothing budged. I was just afraid of breaking it but should I be? If I use more force should it pop right off or what's the deal with it?
Hey Webby,
What is the max mounting depth of the 6 1/2" in the door? I was noticing from your photos (very well done I might add) that the OEM speaker looks a bit shallow. Thanks in advance!
The wires in the jamb are not running through the OEM boot??? Your description reads like either you poke a hole in the boot on each side (door and car) :face-icon , or you got the wire inbetween the grommet and the metal of the car!
As in most cases, (but definitely in this one) you want to follow the OEM wires and go through the boot. It is definitely not a particularly easy or fun part of any install, but that is the "right" way to get wire into doors.
I have mine in the A pillars and the sound is much better. Brings the sound stage forward and removes the 'harshness' from the sound bouncing off the windshield. I experimented for a while with some sticky tape putting the tweeters in different locations until i settled on the a-pillar. Wiring wasn't too bad to fish through.
Has anyone came across the max mounting depth for those front speakers? When I replaced the rears in my coup I had to make spacers out of 1/2" plywood. Then I had to cut off the end of the tortion bar on one side. I have also heard that you can cut out the factory speaker cone and use that plastic piece as a spacer to mount the new speaker in. Does anyone have any experience doing that?
Has anyone came across the max mounting depth for those front speakers? When I replaced the rears in my coup I had to make spacers out of 1/2" plywood. Then I had to cut off the end of the tortion bar on one side. I have also heard that you can cut out the factory speaker cone and use that plastic piece as a spacer to mount the new speaker in. Does anyone have any experience doing that?
Any modern 6.5" speaker will fit in the door. The Distance from the inner door skin to the outer door skin is about 4".
You should use a spacer ring of at least 1" in height.
I cut 2 small pieces from the inner door skin in order to accommodate my Polk MMC650s. The mod isn't drastic, allowing you to put the OEM speakers back.
Any modern 6.5" speaker will fit in the door. The Distance from the inner door skin to the outer door skin is about 4".
You should use a spacer ring of at least 1" in height.
I cut 2 small pieces from the inner door skin in order to accommodate my Polk MMC650s. The mod isn't drastic, allowing you to put the OEM speakers back.
I am new to installing speakers and to this website. I lost that screws come with speakers, so now i am looking for 4 long screws(With nuts) which hold the speaker mount and 4 small ones which hold for speakers.
Please someone help me with it. From where i can buy them.i live in manitoba canada.
probably the same way as the coupes. i have Polk DB650's in my
front doors. i cut up the factory speakers to make them into
spacers and salvaged the factory connector, soldered it onto the
Polks.. got factory connection. :laughing:
FTI:
I just installed a pair of PolkAudio db650 speakers yesterday on my 06 EX Coupe. The 6 1/2" speakers did flash against the wall because there side wall is not flat. To work around this problem, I cut out the OEM speakers and use the "outer shell" as a the brackets for my new speakers. This works well. Sorry I did not take any pictures...
Tip: Make sure you roll down the windows. It makes the installation much more easier.
I too is doing a bit of research on how to replace the factory speakers in the front. This thread is a good help for the entire process (good job guys!).
I also have a polk speakers similar to the post above (MMC650). My plan on this one is instead of cutting-off the metal sheet from the door to match the speakers spacers why not just modify the spacers itself to match the whole? Do you guys think its gonna work?
I just got the MMC650 also. I tried to get them into the stock holes but the huge basket is stopping me from getting them all the way in. I'm pretty sure the only way to get these babies to fit is by dremeling off the extra bumps in the round cut-out of the stock speakers. Anyone have trouble mounting the crossovers? I noticed on the first pictures there is a hanger inside the door, does it rattle when placed here? Also should I be putting anything on the inside of the door panels? Foam? Should I be gluing foam on the panel right behind the speaker? I basically just want to get everything done for the inside of the door panels first and I will Dynamat the rest of the door later. Thanks for the help.
Any modern 6.5" speaker will fit in the door. The Distance from the inner door skin to the outer door skin is about 4".
You should use a spacer ring of at least 1" in height.
I cut 2 small pieces from the inner door skin in order to accommodate my Polk MMC650s. The mod isn't drastic, allowing you to put the OEM speakers back.
I have some Rainbow Germaniums that have a similar mounting depth of 2.5", and I was wondering if there was any clearance issues with the 1" spacers and the door panel.
I have some Rainbow Germaniums that have a similar mounting depth of 2.5", and I was wondering if there was any clearance issues with the 1" spacers and the door panel.
There won't be a problem because the speaker flange is about 1/8" (~3mm) thick.
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